Tuesday, December 31, 2013


Happy New Year everyone! We hope your holidays were filled with warmth and joy. Here are a few things to start thinking about for January.

PRUNE DECIDUOUS TREES. It is the time of year for you to evaluate your deciduous fruit and shade trees and see what, if any, pruning needs to be done. It is easy to see the shape of your trees when they are void of leaves. Pruning stimulates growth but this growth will be delayed until it warms in spring. Be sure that you have sharp clean pruning tools so that your cuts are precise and will callous over naturally. You will want to first remove any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Then prune off any limbs that are crossing, rubbing or heading toward the center. Once you have removed the obvious problems from your tree, look at the overall form. Try to keep all of the branches heading up and/or out from the center and thin the rest to a pleasing shape. I know that some of my trees, that are in high wind areas ( ok, that would be all of trees in Grant County) tend to grow heavier on the leeward side. We quite often have to thin that side to keep the tree looking symmetrical. When removing a branch always cut it back to a place of active growth. This will be the trunk, another branch or a bud facing in a desirable direction.  Always prune slightly in front of the branch collar and these cuts will heal over. Never leave stubs as they will die back to a place of active growth inviting disease.  Removing any branches that are not heading up and/or out will allow air and sunlight to penetrate the center of your trees which increases fruit and flower production while decreasing insects and diseases. You never want to remove more that 1/3 of the total structure of a tree in one year. And last but not least NEVER TOP A TREE!!!! A topped tree will either die because it can no longer supply itself with food or produce dangerous, ugly, weak growth. See The Mutilation of Trees in Grant County. Always plant  a tree that will not outgrow the space provided for it. Keep in mind that pruning is done to benefit the health and aesthetics of the tree. It is not something that should be done automatically every year.
PRUNE SUMMER FLOWERING SHRUBS AND VINES. In general, summer flowering shrubs and vines should be pruned this time of year. Again evaluate these plants individually to see if any pruning needs to be done and start by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Buddleja (Butterfly Bush) does not need to be pruned until it has been in the ground at least 2 years. After that thin it by removing 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest growth all the way to the ground. This practice will encourage new growth and since Butterfly Bushes bloom on new wood this will improve flowering. Caryopteris (Blue Mist Spiraea) blooms on current season's wood as well. Cut it back to 1' and lightly prune after flowering to encourage another bloom. The Dogwood that does well in our area, Cornus (Red Twig Dogwood) should be pruned in late winter so you can enjoy the red color longer. New stems will have a brighter red color so thinning it by 1/3 will allow for new growth while keeping the height. If you want to keep it as a small shrub you can cut it all the way to the ground before the new growth starts in spring. Cotoneasters  need little pruning just an occasional shaping. Euonymus, Ilex (Holly) and Photinia (Red Tip) can be shaped now. If you are using them as a hedge you can even them off or as an accent shrub prune any crossing, rubbing, dead branches all the way back. Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) should have the old, weak, dead wood thinned out and to promote larger flowers cut back the previous year's growth to 2 buds. Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo) will stay full and bushy if you cut any tall leafless canes all the way to the ground. Spiraea should have the older, woody branches thinned out. Campsis (Trumpet Vine) can become top heavy if left to grow wild. Once one or more strong trunks have developed thin branches to 2-3 buds. Polygonum (Silver Lace Vine) needs to be thinned and the prior year's growth headed back to encourage flowering. Parthenocissus (Virginia Creeper) can be left until it reaches the desired size and then simply pruned to keep its shape. Wisteria should be allowed to develop a permanent framework and then pruned regularly. Cut back the flower-bearing laterals, easily recognized as the short fat-budded spurs to 2-3 buds. In summer prune the long vining shoots before they twine where you don't want them. Keep any that serve a purpose in the general shape you want and tie them to your support. Clematis is a little more tricky depending upon when they bloom. So here is a link to a good article covering all varieties. Pruning Clematis
These are a few of the more popular summer flowering shrubs and vines. Spring flowering shrubs and vines should be pruned after flowering. Roses should not be pruned until the first few leaf buds begin to break in spring, usually late March. Prune the woody Salvias (Sage) after new growth starts in spring by cutting them back to active growth. If you have specific questions about pruning please leave a comment or email me at silverheightsnursery@gmail.com
APPLY DORMANT SPRAY. (reprinted from October 2013) If you have had problems with scale, spider mite, whitefly or mealy bug on your fruit or shade trees and ornamental shrubs you may want to treat these landscape plants with All Seasons Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil. This product can be used during the growing season but is also effective when used in winter to smother the eggs of these pests. Spray Oil can also safely be applied to many houseplants. Lime Sulfur Spray can be used in fall as the leaves drop and again in early spring to help control powdery mildew and several kinds of scale. It can be mixed with Spray Oil at a rate of 4 oz. Sulfur and 1 1/4 oz. Spray Oil per gallon of water and sprayed when winter buds swell before opening to kill insect eggs and fungus spores. Liqui-Cop is a copper fungicide that is effective against shot hole fungus, fireblight, black spot, bacterial leaf spot, peach leaf curl and many other fungal diseases on fruits and berries. Be sure to follow label directions carefully as application timing and quantities vary by the plant being treated and the insect or disease being controlled. Rake up and destroy any leaves of affected plants and spray the ground surrounding them.
Two plants that I decided to bring indoors for the winter that have surprised me with their vigor and color are Cyclamen and Gerber Daisy. Both of these plants like cooler weather so quite often they languish in the hottest part of the summer outdoors. We have Cyclamen available in spring and they can be used outdoors in a shady spot and then brought indoors for the winter or kept as a houseplant year round. Mine was pure white in the summer from the lack of sun but now that it is getting that southern exposure it is deep rose and the flowers seem to last forever. These plants are tuberous perennials with marbled, heart shaped leaves and usually bloom December through April. After which they will go dormant for a couple of months, leaves will be sparse and they will need little water. Be careful not to get water directly on the crown as this can cause it to rot.

 In years past I have just discarded my Gerber Daisies after the first frost but decided to see what they would do inside through the winter and I have not been disappointed. It has been blooming non-stop since I brought it inside in October. Gerbers seems to be quite happy in a south window and like to stay on the dry side. I would keep it away from any blowing heat though and watch for scale and spider mites. These are two plants that will give you nothing less than spectacular winter color, so lose the poinsettias and try something new next year!

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Happy Thankgiving!

As most of you know I am a fall color freak. So when we were landing in Chicago upon our return from vacation the oranges, yellows and reds made me long for the hardwoods of my Midwest childhood. Well until the 32 degree 'Windy City' greeted us as we waited for my sister to pick us up. Then I remembered what had driven me to move to Tucson in 1976. When we returned home we were assuming that the autumnal hues would have peaked long ago but were delighted by the electric yellow of the Cottonweeds (not a misprint) as we drove through Silver City. And we could see the bright red of our Bradford Pear from Highway 90. Today we are enjoying the first of (I hope) many winter snows and fall color is a distant memory. If it does turn warm and dry this is your friendly reminder to water this winter. If there has not been any significant precipitation for 3 weeks use that moisture-meter of a finger and dig down a couple of inches around your plants. If it comes up dry, water thoroughly to keep those growing roots hydrated.

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and Steve and I both hope you take time to enjoy this day any way you choose to do so! Don't forget SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY on the 30th. We are lucky to have so many great small merchants here. Please get out and support them!

In December the Evergreen Garden Club is hosting their Enchanted Christmas Tree Tour. Susan & Fidel Hinojosa have been kind enough to open their historic home at 615 A Street in Silver City for this event. 

Saturday, December 7th                    Sunday, December 8th
4:00 PM - 8:00 PM                              3:00 PM - 7:00 PM

Saturday, December 14th                   Sunday, December 15th
4:00 PM - 8:00 PM                               3:00 PM - 7:00 PM

There will be 25 Decorated Trees and a Miniature Christmas Village.
Tickets are only $5.00 for adults and $1.00 for children 12 and under. They are available at Alotta Gelato, AM Bank, Aunt Judy's Attic and at the door. 

Proceeds benefit Children's Charities in Grant County.

This is really a wonderful Holiday experience! Hope to see you there.

Friday, September 27, 2013

End of The Season

  • Beginning Saturday, September 28th at 9:00 all trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals will be 50% OFF!
  • We are also offering Fox Farm Light Warrior Seed Starting Mix at $5.00 a bag (regular price $16.75)!
  • All of Jan's Garden Art & Windchimes are 10% off!
Come early for the best selection.
We will be closing for the season on Saturday, October 5th.

Apply dormant sprays. This will be a job for the winter months but I wanted to remind you so you could pick these items up before we close for the season. If you have had problems with scale, spider mite, whitefly or mealy bug on your fruit or shade trees and ornamental shrubs you may want to treat these landscape plants with All Seasons Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil. This product can be used during the growing season but is also effective when used in winter to smother the eggs of these pests. Spray Oil can also safely be applied to many houseplants. Lime Sulfur Spray can be used in fall as the leaves drop and again in early spring to help control powdery mildew and several kinds of scale. It can be mixed with Spray Oil at a rate of 4 oz. Sulfur and 1 1/4 oz. Spray Oil per gallon of water and sprayed when winter buds swell before opening to kill insect eggs and fungus spores. Liqui-Cop is a copper fungicide that is effective against shot hole fungus, fireblight, black spot, bacterial leaf spot, peach leaf curl and many other fungal diseases on fruits and berries. Be sure to follow label directions carefully as application timing and quantities vary by the plant being treated and the insect or disease being controlled. Rake up and destroy any leaves of  affected plants and spray the ground surrounding them.

Ligustrum x vicaryi. The Golden Vicary Privet is a low maintenance shrub that will grow quickly to 4-6' tall and wide. It tolerates full sun or part shade. New leaves are glossy yellow maturing to dark green. Commonly used as a hedge or screen this privet could also be planted in the back of a perennial bed where the golden color would contrast nicely with red and blue flowers. It is cold hardy to minus 20 degrees and a low water user once established.

Ligustrum x vicaryi

We really appreciate your continued support and will see you in the spring. Enjoy the winter!

Wednesday, September 11, 2013


Our final truck of the year delivered some beautiful Pansies, Violas, Mums, Dianthus, Snaps and Fall Veggies just in time for this lovely autumnal weather. We also received a few Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicafolia), Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) and Rosemary (Rosmarinus) both trailing and upright.

Don't forget that we will open either March 25th or April 1st next year so if you need any gardening supplies before that you might want to pick them up now. We have Uni-Gro Potting Soil, Back to Earth Compost, Wall-o-Water, Fox Farm Fertilizer, Floating Row Cover, Rooting Hormone, Etc.

See you soon!

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

September 2013

 First, I apologize for being tardy on my posting. No computer, then a new computer and friends in from out of town have put me behind schedule. So here goes.

Control mosquitos. With all of this glorious rain come mosquitos. There are several ways you can diminish the impact they have on your outdoor life. Wear light colored clothing and try to stay indoors at dawn and dusk when the little devils seem to be most active. If you use an insect repellant try a product containing geraniol instead of toxic DEET. You can buy this as a wristband, diffuser or spray. Of course you will want to find any places that collect water and make sure they are emptied, turned over or provided with drainage. We carry Summit Mosquito Dunks that are a non-toxic biological control for specific insect larvae including mosquitos and black flies. The dunks will not harm birds, pets or fish so they can safely be used in birdbaths and ponds. It will kill the larvae before it becomes a blood sucker. The Mosquito Dunk also comes as Mosquito Bits. Same active ingredient but easier to sprinkle around and it also works on fungus gnats. Those nasty little fly-like creatures that find refuge in moist potting soil and fly up your nose when your sitting there watching TV, on the computer or reading a book. So try any or all of these precautions and enjoy this gorgeous weather!

Plant pansies and violas. I don't know about you but some of my pots are looking very tired. Next week we will have in our final load of pansies, violas, snapdragons, mums, dianthus and a large selection of fall veggies. Pansies and violas love cool weather and will grow all winter long in our area. Snapdragons and dianthus are basically perennial here and will bloom very early in the spring if planted now. Cool season vegetables that will still produce well are spinach, lettuces, beets, carrots, radishes, broccoli, cabbage and more. Look for our sign out on 180 and we'll let you know when they are here.

Apply a winterizer fertilizer. Here is a copy of last years post: You will want to use Gro-Power 3-12-12. This fertilizer is low in nitrogen but high in phosphorus and potash. Nitrogen promotes green growth which can be damaged by freezing temperatures. Phosphorus increases winter hardiness and stimulates healthy root growth. Since this is the time of year that plants naturally do the majority of their root growth, using this fertilizer will get them off to a good start next spring. Potash or potassium produces strong, hardy stems and trunks, promotes disease resistance and also increases winter hardiness. The Gro-Power 3-12 12 contains 7% humic acid which encourages beneficial microorganisms in your soil. It also includes sulphur to help bring the alkalinity of our soil down and several micronutrients that act as catalysts for the primary chemicals. Use this fertilizer at a rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet of lawn or bed area and 2 tablespoons per foot of height or width for trees and shrubs. One cup will fertilize an 8 foot tree. Lightly work the fertilizer into the soil around the root area and water thoroughly.

Cerastium tomentosum. Snow-in-Summer is a tough groundcover that grows rapidly to 6-8" tall by 1-2' in one season. The short silvery-gray leaves form a dense mat and the small white flowers bloom profusely in early summer. It is native to Italy but adapts well to our climate and is at home in a rock garden, spilling over a wall, as a bank cover or in the front of a perennial bed. I especially like it combined with Verbena 'Homestead Purple'. This perennial is drought tolerant, hardy to 30 degrees below zero (zone 4)  and can grow in full sun or half a day of shade.


'Homestead Purple' Verbena with Snow-in-Summer

Sunday, July 28, 2013

August 2013 & Sale

Come to our August Sale! We are having a big sale beginning Tuesday, July 30th and running through August, while supplies last. All of our Weeks & Proven Winners Roses as well as our evergreen, flowering, fruit and shade trees are 20% OFF!!! There is still a good selection so come early and often.

 We also have our Lake Valley & Pagano Seeds on half price through August 10th. Stock up for fall planting this year or spring next year.

Divide Iris. After 3 or 4 years Iris will become overcrowded and their blooms will diminish in size and quantity. This is a good time to breathe new life into them by dividing the bulbs. Dig the clumps and separate them saving the largest rhizomes with healthy leaves and cutting away old leafless portions. Trim the saved bulbs to 6" of leaves above the rhizome and 6 inches of roots below. Let them dry over night before replanting in soil that has been amended with Back to Earth Compost Blend and a source of phosphorus such as  Bone Meal, Bulb Food or Soft Rock Phosphate. Plant 1 to 2 feet apart with the soil coming to the top of the bulb. Water thoroughly and you will be amazed at how much better your iris perform next year.

Control Snails. With all of this rain we have been getting (Yaaaaaay!) the snails are returning in droves. They hide out under garden debris and other shady areas during the heat of the day and come out to dine on your plants when it's cool. They have toothlike jaws that eat holes in your plants' leaves and flowers. To control them start by clearing out their hiding areas. You can fill shallow containers with beer or a little yeast and sugar mixed with water and this will lure the little lushes in to drown. Happy, but dead. There is also an organic product called Sluggo. This product, which we sell, is simply iron phosphate with a bait additive. It is very effective and after eating the bait, slugs and snails will stop feeding, become less mobile and begin to die within three to six days. It is OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) registered and can be applied at a rate of 1 lb per 1000 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square yard. It is safe to use around pets, wildlife and homo sapiens.There is also a Sluggo Plus that is iron phosphate with Spinosad added and it controls sow bugs (aka pill bugs or rollie pollies) as well as snails and slugs. It is also organic and eco-friendly.

Caryopteris x clandonensis. Blue Mist or Bluebeard is a deciduous shrub that will grow from 3-4' tall and wide. The variety we carry is 'Dark Knight' and it blooms from July through September with deep blue flowers that attract butterflies and bees. The flowers appear in clusters on the top part of the stems and the leaves are gray-green. It would work well in a perennial bed, along a walkway or as a foundation plant. To keep it full you should cut it back to a foot tall in the spring. This shrub will sometimes reseed but is not invasive. We also grew a dwarf variety of the species this year called 'Petit Bleu'. It is a Proven Winner and has a more compact growth habit, only reaches 2' tall and wide and its foliage is darker green. All of the Bluebeards are drought tolerant once established, will grow in full sun or part shade and are cold hardy to zone 5 or 20 degrees below zero.
Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Petit Bleu'

Friday, July 12, 2013

Free Veggies!

We have a few vegetables left and they are free for the taking Friday, July 12th and tomorrow Saturday, July 13th. While supplies last!

Monday, July 1, 2013

July 2013

Start a Butterfly Garden. Butterflies are beautiful creatures. The adults are good pollinators and the larvae of some called Harvesters eat harmful insects. It is actually quite easy to attract butterflies to your garden. Butterflies like to sun themselves and will only drink from very shallow water. Flat rocks with indentations that collect or can be filled daily with water, or a container full of sand that has been saturated with water are good places for butterflies to get a drink. You will want to plant perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees that serve as a nectar source for adults as well as supplying suitable plants for their caterpillars. When laying their eggs butterflies seek out host plants that the larvae will use as their food. Most of the time the caterpillars will not destroy a plant but only eat for a while, pupate and be gone. Trees that act as host plants include Malus (Flowering Crabapple), Platunus (Sycamore) and Prunus (Plum). Munchable shrubs are Hibiscus, Rosa (Rose), Spiraea, Viburnum (Snowball) and Wisteria. Annuals and Perennials would be Achillea (Yarrow), Alcea (Hollyhock), Brassicas (Broccoli, Cabbage and Mustard), Lobularia (Alyssum), Penstemon and herbs such as Fennel, Dill and Lovage. Nectar producers for adults include the flowers of Apples, Vitex (Chaste Tree), Lavandula (Lavender), Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Syringa (Lilac), of course Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Rosmarinus (Rosemary), Centranthus (Jupiter's Beard), Echinacea (Coneflowers), Achillea (Yarrow) and Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan). These are a few of the plants that butterflies enjoy. For a complete list stop by the nursery. Butterflies are fun and relaxing to watch so start your butterfly garden today.
Plant something. We are hoping that the monsoon is right around the corner for a multitude of reasons and since plants do 80% of their root growth in late summer, fall and winter now through early fall is really the best time to plant. Some rain and humidity will make watering a little less critical. Choose a tree, shrub or perennial and dig the hole twice as wide and 1 1/2 times as deep as the container. Add 1/3 Back to Earth Compost Blend to 2/3 of your native soil (I know it's bad) mix it up and use this mixture to plant. If your soil is clayey add Gypsum. Use B1 as a root stimulator when watering your new plants. The best way to check to see if any plant needs water is to stick your finger in the soil and if it dry 1'' down water thoroughly. Do a rain dance, plant something and be rewarded next spring.


Hibiscus. Many think of Hibiscus only as a tropical plant that will die if kept outside in the winter here but there are 2 great species that will overwinter in our area while providing you with those tropical looking flowers. One is the large deciduous shrub Hibiscus syriacus or Rose of Sharon as it is commonly known. It grows at a moderate rate to 10 feet tall and 6 feet wide and can be trained into a small tree. The leaves are a medium green with 3 lobes and the summer flowers can be either double or single and as big as 3" across. Established plants will take some drought but a low amount of water is recommended. The 2 varieties we have right now are the Proven Winner 'Azuri Satin' which is a single blue flower with a red throat and 'Boule de Feu' that is a double pinkish-red. Both of these Hibiscus are full sun or part shade shrubs and are hardy to 20 degrees below zero. Use them in mass as a colorful hedge, for an accent or as an anchor in a perennial bed. 
Hibiscus syriacus 'Azuri Satin'
Hibiscus syriacus 'Boule de Feu'
The other species of Hibiscus that we carry is Hibiscus moscheutos variety 'Luna Red'. Some common names are Rose Mallow and Dinner Plate Hibiscus and this is an herbaceous perennial meaning it will die to the ground in the winter and reemerge in spring. It grows to 2-3' tall and wide each season, its leaves are dark green with a whitish underside and the flowers that start in late June and continue until frost are no less than spectacular. Dark red, very tropical looking and at least 6" across. Our friend Lou has had one in a whiskey barrel for 3 years and it is a perfect specimen. It gets morning sun, afternoon shade and is protected from the west wind. So an east side would be ideal. She mulches it with straw each winter and it easily made it through the minus 8 we had a few years ago. All of these Hibiscus attract hummingbirds and butterflies.
Lou with her Hibiscus moscheutos 'Luna Red'


Monday, June 10, 2013

Garden Tour

Thanks to everyone who came out for the Evergreen Garden Club's Annual Garden Tour. They really appreciate the support. There were 153 entrees for the gift certificate giveaway and Meg Topmiller was the luck winner!

Monday, June 3, 2013

June 2013

Water. I was looking back over past blogs and newsletters for the month of June and two things stuck out. One is that they were quite often late in getting published and two they were quite often about watering. That could be why they are always late. So here is a link to one that I feel is especially comprehensive June 2011 'Watering'. I always think of George Brookbank, a long time Extension Agent in Tucson, whose pat answer for the question "How often do I water my plants?"  was "When they need it."

Attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects play many rolls in the garden. They can pollinate, dine on harmful insects, decompose organic matter and serve as a food source for birds and lizards. Bees are very important pollinators and a friend recently sent me some info about their decline. Here is an interesting article on the subject 'Garden Pesticides Killing Bees' . Many moths and flies are also pollinators. The tiny wasps you see are parasitic and will lay their eggs inside host insects as well as controlling whiteflies and aphids. We all know ladybugs have a voracious appetite for all kinds of sucking insects but so do lacewings, spiders, certain flies and dragonflies. So how do you get these little creatures to favor your garden? First and foremost don't use toxic insecticides on your plants. Even organic pesticides such as pyrethrin and neem will kill beneficials so use them sparingly in a controlled area. Second, provide them with food, water and shelter. The food is simple enough to supply by planting an herb garden as described last month. Any small nectar-rich flowers will do and most herbs fall into this category. Other flowers would include yarrow, alyssum, cosmos, butterfly weed and zinnias. Water can be supplied by a shallow birdbath and shelter with a good layer of mulch. If you can make an attractive environment for beneficials it won't be long before they will become permanent residents in your garden.

Plant perennials. Many of the perennials we have been growing are blooming beautifully right now. Come in and check them out. We can help you decide which ones are right for your particular area.
One of our growing areas.

Lycium barbarum. 'Big Lifeberry' Goji Berry is a deciduous shrub that will grow quickly to 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide. It has a sprawling form and staking is recommended for full access to the fruit. Yes! it produces the popular red anti-oxidant rich berries everyone is talking about. The Proven Winners 'Big Lifeberry' variety blooms with lavender flowers in spring and produces extra large berries in late summer. This shrub is drought tolerant and cold hardy to zone 5. It will take full sun or part shade and could be trellised or grown in a large pot. 

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Mark your calendar!

On Sunday, June 9th from 1 PM to 5 PM The Evergreen Garden Club will be holding their Annual Garden Tour and we are honored to be a part of it. You will be able to visit 5 gardens for only $5, ours being one, and enter a drawing to win a $50 gift certificate for Silver Heights Nursery. Tickets are available at Silver Heights Nursery, The Silver City Farmers' Market, Alotta Gelato, AmBank and Mimbres Farms. The Evergreen Garden Club is a nonprofit group founded in 1951 and they support many community projects including:
* Adopt a Highway
* Habitat for Humanity
* Local Community Gardens
* Earth Day
* Flower Show
* Annual Garden Tour
* Water Conservation
* Harvest Festival
Their past monthly programs have been:
* Beneficial Herbs
* Floral Design
* Troublesome weeds
* Butterfly Gardening
* Community Gardens
* Garden Pests
* Planning Your Next Garden
* Container Gardening
* Native Plants and Xeriscaping
The Evergreen Garden Club is always seeking new memebers. Annual dues are $15.00 and meetings are held on the third Thursday of each month. For further information please contact Lequita Lett at (575) 538-3216 or Ginna Heiden at (575) 388-1843.

So get out and support this great organization and we'll see you at our house on Sunday, June 9th between 1-5 PM!

Friday, May 10, 2013

Stop and Smell the Roses!

Happy Mother's Day!!!
Only two days left at 10% off.
Too many choices.
'Ketchup & Mustard' was new in 2012

'Rio Samba'

Classic 'Peace'

The very fragrant 'Mister Lincoln'

'Ebb Tide'

New for 2013 'Sparkle & Shine' a non-fading yellow

Sunday, May 5, 2013

MAY 2013

Plant an herb garden. Chive butter for baked potatoes, fresh cilantro for salsa, sage chopped for stuffing and basil to make pesto are all possible if you start an herb garden. With more and more people growing their own vegetables and fruit, planting an herb garden seems like the next logical step. A small plot will keep you in fresh herbs all summer long while a larger area will yield enough to dry for future use. Certain herbs like sage, oregano and parsley can even be harvested fresh in winter. If possible choose an area that is easily accessible to the kitchen. The spot should receive at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and the soil should be amended with compost to provide good drainage. Choose the herbs that you use most often or find attractive. Plant perennials and reseeding annuals, leaving space for tenedr annuals like basil and marjoram that you will replant every year. Begin at the back of the garden, or the middle if it is a round space, with tall herbs. (P = perennial, A = annual, R = reseeding annual or biennial)
In the 3'-5' range are:
Lovage (P), celery flavored leaves for soups, sauces & stews.
Fennel (R), great in seafood stews & salads.
Upright Rosemary (P), use in beef, pork, lamb and chicken dishes. Very drought tolerant, often used as an evergreen shrub and it is deer resistant.
Lavender (P), grown for fragrance, tea, and Provencal cooking. An evergreen, deer resistant shrub. There are also 12''- 15'' lavenders.
2'-3' tall would include:
Dill (R), use the seeds and leaves in fish dishes, pickles, salads and dressings.
Sage (P), used to flavor stuffings, sausages, poultry and pork. Pretty lavender-blue flowers.
Greek Oregano (P), essential in Italian, Greek and Mexican cooking. The best flavored oregano in my opinion.
Moving out from the center, or away from the back, plant shorter herbs. 1'-2' tall are:
Parsley (R), Use in clam sauce, tabouleh, soups, salad and sauces.
Basil (A), lots of varieties that can be used in Italian and Thai cuisine.
French Tarragon (P), leaves are anise flavoed and a must in French cooking.
Savory (A), great for flavoring beans and cabbage.
Marjoram (A), good in salads soups and vegetable dishes.
1' tall would be:
English Thyme (P), leaves for stuffing, gravies, sauces and soups.
German Chamomile (A), flowers used for tea.
Chives (P), flavor potatoes, cottage cheese, salads and pickles.
Cilantro (R), Use in salsas and many Mexican and Thai dishes. It bolts when it's hot but will reseed and germinate when it cools down.
Stevia (A), used as a sweetener in place of refined sugar.
Epazote (A) sometimes (R), another Mexican cooking essential.
Groundcover plants that you would plant near the edge include Roman Chamomile (A), Lemon Thyme (P) and Creeping Thyme (P). Allow some of your herbs to bloom since many of their flowers have the added benefit of attracting beneficial and pollinating insects as well as butterflies and their larvae. Letting them go to seed will encourage them to germinate and grow when conditions are ideal for that particular herb. Feed your herbs during the growing season with a fertilizer such as Chickity Doo Doo, Yum Yum Mix, Fox Farm's Happy Frog Tomato & Vegetable or liquid Grow Big. We have many of these herbs in stock now and receive weekly deliveries of other varieties.
French Tarragon, Sage, English Thyme and Lavender thrive in an herb garden.
Koelreuteria paniculata. The Goldenrain Tree is the tree you see blooming with fragrant 10" long golden flower clusters at Pinon Plaza. It is a moderate grower that will reach a mature size of 25' tall by 15'-20' wide. The blue green leaves are 15" long divided into several toothed leaflets. Due to its open habit the shade it produces is dappled. In fall the seed pods persist looking like buff colored Chinese lanterns. This tree adapts easily to cold, heat, wind and alkaline soil. The smaller size makes it a good patio tree or an anchor in a perennial bed. It is drought tolerant once established.

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Fruit, Shade, Roses and the winner is.

I know this should be our May blog but time is short and I will be sending a real monthly blog out this Sunday. Just wanted everyone to know that we have received our fruit & shade trees and beautiful Weeks roses. Here is the list of the fruit and shade trees we are stocking this year. We also have a few surprises. 

ALL-IN-ONE: Soft shelled with sweet kernels. Usually about 15 feet tall. Ripens late September to early October. USDA zone 7.
GALA: Medium, golden yellow with reddish blush, firm, crisp, sweet, juicy. Stores well. Ripens late August to early September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.
GRANNY SMITH: Large, bright to yellowish green, firm, tart. Good for eating, cooking, sauce. Ripens late August to mid September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.
RED DELICIOUS: Large, bright red, crisp, juicy. Bears more heavily when pollinized with Yellow Delicious. Ripens September thru October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 4.
YELLOW DELICIOUS: Medium to large. Golden, crisp. Stores well. Eating and cooking variety. Excellent pollinizer for most apples. Ripens September to October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 5.
TILTON: Large, light orange, firm, flavorful. Excellent for freezing, canning and drying. Resistant to late frosts. Ripens mid to late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.
LAPINS: Large, dark red, firm, sweet. Known as a “self fertile Bing”. Ripens late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 6.
STELLA: Large, dark red, firm, sweet, good flavor and texture. Tree bears at a young age. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
PAKISTAN RED: Fruit is ½ to 1 inch long, red, sweet. Ripens June to July. Standard. USDA zone 4.
FANTASIA: Very large, freestone, bright red with yellow under-color, sweet, juicy, good quality. Ripens mid to late July. Standard. USDA zone 6.
ELBERTA: Large, freestone, golden yellow flushed red where exposed to the sun, rich, sweet. Good all around peach for desserts, canning, freezing and jam. Ripens late July. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.
STRAWBERRY: Medium, light skin with a pink blush, flesh is white, firm, aromatic, sweet, juicy. Old favorite of those who like white peaches. Ripens early July. Standard. USDA zone 7.
BARTLETT: Large, smooth, waxy, yellow skin with white, sweet, juicy flesh. Good for fresh eating, canning and preserves. Ripens August. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
GREEN GAGE: Medium, round, greenish yellow skin, very sweet, candy-like flavor. Fresh eating, jams and good home canning variety. Ripens July. Standard. USDA zone 5.
SANTA ROSA: Large, oval, purplish red skin with blue blush, firm flesh, yellow to dark red near skin, rich, pleasing, tart flavor. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
SATSUMA: Large, dark red skin, firm, rather juicy red flesh. Excellent for jams and jellies. Ripens late July to early August. Pollinize with Santa Rosa. Standard. USDA zone 6.
WONDERFUL: Extra large, blushed red skin, flesh is rich, red color, juicy with sharp flavor. Good for jellies. Ripens September. Grow as a fountain shaped bush or tree, 10‟-20‟ tall. USDA zone 7.
AUTUMN BLAZE MAPLE (Acer freemanii "Autumn Blaze‟): Fast growing to 50' high x 40' wide, drought tolerant. Spring leaves emerge with a reddish tint then turn to a rich green with a long show of vibrant red in the fall. Works well as a street or lawn tree. USDA zone 4.
MIMOSA/SILK TREE (Albizia julibrissin): Fast growing to 15'-25' high x 20' wide, drought tolerant. Umbrella shaped, tropical looking foliage with whimsical pink brush-like flowers in late spring. Use as a patio or shade tree. Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. USDA zone 7.
EASTERN REDBUD (Cercis canadensis): Moderate growth to 15'-25' high x 20' wide, drought tolerant. Beautiful rosy pink flower clusters line the bare branches in spring. New foliage is reddish purple turning to dark green in summer. Patio or small shade tree that attracts butterflies, songbirds and hummingbirds. USDA zone 5.

CHITALPA (Chitalpa tashkentensis „Pink Dawn‟): Fast growth to 20'-30' high x 20' wide, drought tolerant. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to its large pink summer flowers. This is a cross between Desert Willow and Catalpa. USDA zone 7.
RAYWOOD ASH (Fraxinus oxycarpa): Fast growth up to 25' high x 25' wide, moderate water user. Dark green foliage gives way to deep red fall color. Makes a desirable shade tree that can be used near patios or walkways. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA ASH ‘BERRINDA’ (Fraxinus velutina 'Berrinda'): Fast growth to 35' high x 35‟ wide, a drought tolerant New Mexico native. Golden yellow fall color. Tree develops strong central leader when young requiring minimal pruning later in life. Large shade tree. USDA zone 6.
GOLDEN HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis 'Aurea'): Fast growing to 40' high x 25' wide, drought tolerant. Adapted to a wide range of harsh growing conditions. Very hard wood makes
it strong against our winds. New foliage bright golden yellow changing to green in summer. Many small leaflets are fern-like in appearance. Late to leaf out and early dormancy make it a good lawn tree. Not good in narrow spaces nor near sidewalks. USDA zone 4.
SHADEMASTER HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis „Shademaster‟): Faster growing than the Golden Honey Locust, can reach 45' high x 35' wide, drought tolerant. Very hardy and adaptable. Good lawn tree but not near sidewalks nor in small spaces. USDA zone 4.
CRABAPPLE ‘PRAIRIFIRE’ (Malus "Prairifire‟): Moderate growth rate to 20' high x 20' wide, moderate water use. Beautiful dark red spring buds open to reveal pinkish red flowers. Foliage is reddish maturing to dark green followed by striking fall colors. Birds will enjoy the intermittent crop of small, red fruits. This tree is very disease resistant. Good for small shade, near water features or where you can take full advantage of the various seasons of color. USDA zone 4.
FRUITLESS MULBERRY (Morus alba): The fastest growing shade tree for our area, 40' high x 40' wide, moderate water. Rounded tree with large maple-like leaves, no fruit production. Difficult to garden under due to heavy surface roots. Do not plant near your foundation, driveway, sidewalks or hard surfaced patios. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA SYCAMORE (Platanus wrightii): Fast grower to 80' high x 50' wide, needs regular water during dry season. Classic climbing tree with graceful horizontal branching and mottled bark. These are the statuesque giants in the Cat Walk area. Winter interest from golf ball sized seed pods. USDA zone 6.
FLOWERING PLUM/PURPLE LEAF PLUM ‘KRAUTER VESUVIUS’ (Prunus cerasifera „Krauter Vesuvius‟): Moderate growth to 18' high x 12' wide, medium water use. Distinctive features include pink spring blooms backed by purple-red new leaves. Small scale, vase shaped tree can be planted in lawns, near patios or as an accent. USDA zone 5.
BRADFORD FLOWERING PEAR (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford'): Moderate to fast grower up to 35' high x 25' wide, moderate water. Showy white spring flowers followed by glossy, dark green, roundish leaves and spectacular red fall color. Oval shaped shade or accent tree for all seasons. USDA zone 5.
PURPLE ROBE LOCUST (Robinia x ambigua 'Purple Robe'): Fast growing, tough tree to 40' high x 20' wide. Tolerant of drought and poor soil. Showy pink to purple flower clusters in late spring make it a stand out. Even with open form it makes great shade with long shadows. USDA zone 4


We have Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Shrubs and Climbers. Lots of new varieties and old favorites.

One lucky subscriber has been awarded a $25 gift certificate. They were notified by email this morning. Sorry if it wasn't you but thanks so much for subsrcibing to our blog!

We hate to report that the Weather Channel is calling for 32 on Thursday, May 2nd. Cover tender plants and hope for the best. If it makes you feel any better we broke our own rule this year (wait until May 1st and then check the 10 day forecast) and planted tomatoes on April 21st.

Monday, April 15, 2013

Here we go again.

There is another freeze warning out for Wednesday and Thursday (April 17th & 18th) this week. Please see this link for tips on what to do.

Friday, April 12, 2013

Trees, Roots and Parking

Just got a load of evergreens and a few Japanese Maples, Aspens and Flowering trees out of Oregon. These are beautiful!!!
Japanese Maple

Dwarf Globe & Norway Spruce

Mugo, Ponderosa, Vanderwolf, & Austrian Pine

Colorado Blue Spruce

Dwarf Alberta Spruce

***Also this year we are carrying Raspberry Plants, Asparagus Crowns, Potato Sets and arriving soon, Horseradish Roots and Shallot & Onion Sets***

Due to the traffic congestion caused by three businesses trying to share a common space, we are asking that anyone who is able to climb the stairs to park in our lower parking lot. It is easier to get around down there and if you need bagged goods we can load them for you right from the pallets.
If you are not able to climb steps please feel free to park by the upper gate. Thanks in advance for the cooperation.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Freeze Warning!

Three weather websites are calling for freezing nighttime temperatures on Tuesday night. This may or may not happen but it is always better to be safe than sorry. Please be advised that you should cover anything with tender new growth. A cotton sheet or floating row cover are good choices. Don't use plastic that directly touches the plant as this can burn foliage. With the warm temps we have had I am sure there are things that need shielding from the cold. Although a freeze won't kill most landscape plants, the new growth will be damaged. But you can say goodbye to your tomatoes and peppers that you planted without protection.

Again, our average last frost date is May 1st so this is not unusual.

Here is a copy of when to plant vegetables in Silver City:

ASPARAGUS (P)                     MARCH1-APRIL30
BEANS, BUSH (S)                  MAY1-31 & JULY1-31
BEANS, POLE (S)                   MAY1-31
BEANS, LIMA (S)                  MAY1-JULY15
BEANS, PINTO (S)                MAY1-31
BEETS (S)                              MARCH1-APRIL15 & JULY15-AUGUST1
BROCCOLI (S) (P)                   MARCH15-APRIL1 & JULY1-15
CABBAGE (S) (P)                    MARCH15-31 & JULY1-15
CANTALOUPE (S) (P)             APRIL15-30
CARROTS (S)                         FEBRUARY15-APRIL 1 & JULY1-AUGUST1
CAULIFLOWER (S) (P)           MARCH15-31 & JULY1-AUGUST1
CORN, SWEET (S)                 APRIL20-JULY1
CUCUMBER (S) (P)                 APRIL15-MAY15
EGGPLANT (P)                       APRIL15- MAY15
GARLIC (Bulb)                       SEPTEMBER15-NOVEMBER15
LEEKS (S)                              FEBRUARY15-MARCH15
LETTUCE, HEAD (S) (P)         MARCH1-15
-BUTTERHEAD (S) (P)           MARCH1-31 & JULY15-AUGUST15
OKRA (S)                               APRIL15-30
ONIONS (S) (Sets)               FEBRUARY15-MARCH15 & SEPTEMBER1-31
PEAS (S)                                FEBRAURY15-APRIL15
WHITE (SP)                           APRIL1- MAY15
PUMPKIN (S)                          MAY1-15
RADISH (S)                            MARCH1-APRIL30 & SEPTEMBER1-30
SPINACH (S) (P)                     FEBRUARY15-MARCH15 & AUGUST1-30
TOMATOES (S) (P)                 APRIL15-MAY15
TURNIPS (S)                          MARCH1-APRIL15 & JULY1-AUGUST15
WATERMELON (S) (P)           APRIL20-MAY20

(S) =plant by seed; (P) = plant live transplants; (SP) =plant seed potatoes or use pieces of organic potatoes
Last frost date in the Grant County area is April 15-May 15 depending on the year and microclimate you are in.
Grant County Extension Service has more free information at 2610 N. Silver Street, Silver City (575) 388-1559.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

APRIL 2013

Prune Roses. I have attached a copy of our Rose Care Guide, one of the many information sheets that we hand out.  There are also a couple of photos of our roses that we pruned this year. You can see how severely they can be pruned to perform well. Don't forget that we will have a truckload of gorgeous roses arriving around the end of April.

1. CHOOSING A ROSE: There are several classes of roses. Here are a few of the basics to help you choose the ones that best suit your needs.
Hybrid Tea- These are the most popular bush type roses. They typically reach 3-5 feet tall and have medium to large flowers borne singly on a long stem. This is the classic cutting rose.
Floribunda- The flowers of this bush are usually smaller than a Hybrid Tea but in large clusters. These plants are shorter at about 2-4 feet tall. Floribundas make great flowering hedges or borders.
Grandiflora- These lie somewhere between their Hybrid Tea and Floribunda parents. They produce the flower of a Hybrid Tea in clusters like a Floribunda. The height is taller though at around 8 feet which makes them a fine background plant.
Climber- Most are vigorous Floribundas or Hybrid Teas that form long canes. You will need to tie them to some sort of sturdy support since they don’t actually “climb” by themselves. Climbers are useful on a trellis or espaliered on a wall or fence.
Miniature- Smaller versions of the above classes. Use them in containers, inside or out, as borders or ground covers.
Hardy Shrub- They are older varieties of roses before roses were hybridized and are very cold hardy, disease resistant and fragrant. The leaves tend to be more crinkled than a hybrid and some produce large hips. Expect them to get 4-7 feet tall and the most popular are Rugosa Roses. Use them effectively as a hedge or background plant.
2. PLANTING: Follow the Silver Heights Nursery “Planting & Care Guide” and, in addition, mix 1 cup Bone Meal into your prepared soil. After planting, sprinkle 1 cup Epsom Salts (the magnesium improves leaf color and vigor) around the root area and water in thoroughly.
3. FERTILIZING: A regular fertilization schedule can be started 1 month after planting. But do not feed after September 1st nor before May 1st. Use an organic or organic based fertilizer such as Happy Frog Rose Food or Fruit and Flower, Gro-Power Flower n’ Bloom, Chickity Doo Doo or Fish Emulsion. Mulch year round with Back To Earth Compost for moisture retention and to protect roots from both heat and cold extremes.
4. PESTS & DISEASES: The best way to deal with these problems is to prevent them or catch them in the early stages. Keeping your plants healthy is the first step toward prevention. Do not let your roses become stressed due to lack of water or nutrients. Never use high nitrogen fertilizers that will cause rampant green growth which insects and diseases find very inviting. Plant your roses in full or morning sun so the leaves will not stay damp. Never water the foliage, only the root area. Keep the center of bush type roses “opened up” to encourage good air circulation. Remove debris, fallen leaves and buds from underneath your plants. Check your roses frequently for any signs of pests and diseases. Here are a few of the most common problems and solutions:
APHIDS & SPIDER MITES-Spray in the morning with a strong jet of water for three days, then treat with insecticidal soap if still present. Beneficial insects.
THRIPS-Spray with insecticidal soap. Beneficial insects.
BORERS-Prune damaged canes and seal ends with tree seal, nail polish or paraffin.
POWDERY MILDEW & RUST-Use sulphur or neem spray as a preventative and to deter spreading. Prune off and dispose of badly infected plant parts.
5. PRUNING: Major pruning should be done in the spring when the buds begin to swell. All pruning cuts should be made ¼ inch above an outward facing bud, at an angle sloping away from the bud. All removal cuts should be made at the source, leaving no stub. The basic principles of pruning bush type roses are as follows: Remove dead canes to the crown. Prune canes damaged by cold to a point where the wood is showing white all the way through. Remove any weak, crossing or rubbing canes and those that tend to crowd the center. Cut off any suckers coming from below the bud union at their source. Shorten any remaining canes by one third to one half. In general, Hybrid Tea roses should be pruned to maintain 3-6 healthy canes, Grandifloras as many as 8 and Floribundas 6-8. Miniatures are pruned in the same way as the larger bush roses. Climber’s laterals can be shortened to 3-6 inches. Shrub roses should only be pruned to shape when young. When mature, remove twiggy growth, very old canes to the ground and shorten other canes by one third. To keep roses fresh looking throughout the flowering season prune spent flowers just above an outward facing leaf with 5 leaflets. This is where a new flower will come from. To cut flowers to enjoy indoors, prune this way also.

Of these 3 roses the one in the front has been properly pruned.

Pruned Hybrid Tea.

To keep your roses beautiful and healthy use Fox Farm's Happy Frog Rose Food. This all organic fertilizer has an analysis of 4% nitrogen for healthy green growth, 4% phosphorus that encourages rooting and flowering, 5% potash or potassium for overall hardiness and disease resistance and contains  7.98% Calcium which plants need for cell wall development and growth. It is also important for enzyme activity, metabolism and for nitrate uptake. This fertilizer has 1.56% Magnesium which promotes dark green leaves and a long list of beneficial mycorrhizae. The Happy Frog Rose Food bag boasts "a custom blend to deliver optimum nutrition for roses and it will create strong plants and increase the color intensity of your flowers". Use this fertilizer monthly throughout the growing season at a rate 1/4 cup per foot of height, work it lightly into the soil and water thoroughly.

Plant Veggies. As I reminded you last month you can plant cool season vegetables like cabbage and broccoli from transplants now but since our average last frost date in Silver City is May 1st, which means it falls somewhere between April 15th and May 15th, you would not want to plant warm season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers now without protection. (Stop into the nursery and pick up a copy of "Silver City's Suggested Planting Times".) Protection would be a heated greenhouse, your heated house or sunroom or a Wall O' Water. The made in Dillon, Montana Wall O’ Water is a long-lasting, durable product, designed to protect plants and extend the growing season. Using the physical properties of water, it protects the plant from cold as low as 12° F, from winds as strong as 40 mph, and from animal activity. In addition, the Wall O’ Water reduces water use by sheltering the base of the plant from sun and wind, reducing transpiration. It is a series of 18 tubes filled with water to form a rigid wall of water surrounding the plant. During the day, that water is warmed by the sun and this heat is retained to insulate the plant from cold conditions. This system retains nearly 900,000 calories of heat to protect delicate plant roots and warm the soil surrounding your plant. When filled with water, the product weighs more than 20 pounds giving it plenty of mass to withstand wind and animal activity. You fill the tubes with water and allow it it warm the soil for a week. Then plant your transplants inside. This can give you a 4-8 week jump on the season.
This year we will be offering our vegetables in 3 packs instead of 6 packs. We feel this will allow our customers the opportunity to plant a larger variety of vegetables as well as helping gardeners with smaller spaces save money.

Phlox subulata. Creeping Phlox is an evergreen groundcover that is blooming around town right now. Its needlelike foliage forms a mat 3 feet wide and 6-10'' tall. The very early spring flowers are 3/4''wide and come in 'Emerald Blue', 'Candy Stripe' and 'Red Wings'. This plant is drought tolerant and hardy to zone 3 or 30-40 degrees below zero. Plant in full sun or half a day of shade in a rock garden, as a bank cover, in the front of a perennial bed, cascading over a wall or in a pot. You could even plant tough bulbs like Tulips and Daffodils with this groundcover for a real spring show. To keep it fresh cut back by half after blooming and broom it when it looks sad in February.
Phlox subulata 'Emerald Blue' blooming its little heart out on March 19th, 2013.

Monday, March 25, 2013


We open today, March 26th at 9:00 and will be open Tuesdays-Saturdays 9:00-5:00 through September. Look forward to seeing you.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Almost there!

We have been very busy getting the nursery ready to open on March 26th. A truckload of soil and hardgoods has been unloaded. Hardgoods being anything that doesn't require water. Next we made the long drive to our perennial plug grower and picked up some beautiful new plants plus some old favorites. These have been potted into #1  containers and they will be ready for sale, depending on the weather, by late April or early May. Here are some of our new products.

Classic Brands 'More Birds' Songbird Feeders and Hummingbird Feeders. We went with Classic Brands feeders because the company actually researched 1000 bird lovers to see what they wanted in a feeder. The information they gathered led them to implement the following features on the Songbird Feeders:
  • Easy Fill. All of the feeders have wide fill openings.The tube feeder has a funnel top.
  • Easy Clean. Each feeder has removable tops, sides and bottoms and are dishwasher safe.
  • Stay Full Port. All of the ports stay full even when the seed gets low.
  • Attract More Birds. Most feeders make the birds put their heads into the feeder and they lose their peripheral vision which makes them concerned about predators. These feeders bring the food out to the birds and have large round perches where the birds can sit in any position and feel safe and comfortable. 
  • Choose Your Birds. With a changeable shutter you can serve any kind of seed or thistle. The perches also adjust for larger or smaller birds.

We are carrying the 'Harmony' which has a 2 pound capacity and 6 feeding ports and the 'Abundance' that has a 6 pound capacity. Here is a link to some feeding tips that 'More Birds' provides. Feeding Tips

The attributes they applied to the Hummingbird Feeders are:
  • Easy Fill. Wide mouths and flat bottoms make these very easy to fill.
  • Easy Clean. Each feeder base comes apart and has a large opening.
  • Lots of Features. The feeders have more feeding ports, built in perches and bee guards. 
The two Hummingbird Feeders we chose are the 'Elixir' an antique red bottle with burnt penny finish, holding 13 ounces and sporting 5 perches and the 'Diamond' which holds 30 ounces and has a built-in ant moat.

Paradise Bay Hats. These are the classic straw hats that last forever and provide good shade from our intense sun. We sold them at our old nursery and have had many requests to bring them back. They sell for under $10.00.

Ocean Forest Potting Soil and Fox Farm Fertilizers. The nursery will continue to sell these high quality soils and fertilizers and have managed to keep the prices either the same or a little less than last year!

Bird Netting, Frost Guard, Landscape Grade Weed Barrier and Shade Cloth by the foot, Pond Pumps, Benches, Organic Fertilizers and Insecticides, Redwood Trellises, Plastic Pots, Super Saucers, Rain Gauges, Birdbaths, Deer Stopper, Tree Stakes, even more Beautiful Glazed Pottery and new Yard Art. 

Again this year we will only be announcing sales and new arrivals on our blog. If you subscribe you will be among the first to know. Subscribe now by entering your email address in the box below "Subscribe via email" and hit the "Subscribe" button. You will then receive an email from Feedburner which you have to respond to to activate your subscription. It is that easy and you will then get any new posts we make. You will not receive any other emails or spam by subscribing to our blog. We will be giving away a $25.00 gift certificate to a lucky subscriber on May 1st. This will be a random drawing and the winner will be notified by email.  You don't need to do anything except subscribe or already be subscribed to enter.

Thanks again for your continued support and we hope to see you soon!

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

February 2013

Break out the broom. You probably don't think of a broom as a garden tool but I quite often use mine as one. One of my favorite uses is cleaning the winter damage from my  Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata). After a good sweeping the Phlox looks green and bright and ready to display its early spring flowers. Another sweepable (is that a word?) plant is Creeping Thyme (Thymus minus or serpyllum). It tends to look brown and dead at this time of year but cheers right up once I've broomed it. Other plants I sweep are Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa), Iceplant (Delosperma) and Creeping Rosemary (Rosmarinus). A broom is sometimes useful in cleaning fallen leaves from sturdy shrubs such as Sage (Salvias) and Lavender (Lavandula). Enjoy this warm spell and get those plants cleaned up.
Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) before

and after sweeping.

Divide perennials. Propagating a plant by dividing it into several individual plants, complete with roots and buds of their own, is called division. Most herbaceous perennials, those that die to the ground in the winter, will benefit from being divided every few years. Bee Balm (Monarda), Daylillies (Hemerocallis), some Sage (Salvia), Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Coneflowers (Echinacea) are just a few that fall into this category. If your perennials have become overgrown, died out in the center or just don’t bloom as well as they used to, rejuvenate them by dividing now. Have the area you plan to transplant them to or the containers you will pot them in ready so you don’t leave their roots exposed for too long. Add 1/3 Back to Earth Compost to 2/3 of your native soil and a handful of Bone Meal to encourage root growth when planting in the ground. Use Uni-Gro Organic Potting Soil for containers. Start by digging up the root system using a trowel, spade or in the case of large clumps a garden fork. Shake off the loose soil and remove dead leaves and stems. Wash the soil from the crown so you can see the buds clearly. Divide the clump into sections that contain several buds or shoots and healthy roots discarding any old, woody growth. Replant and water thoroughly with a root stimulator to settle the soil around the roots. If it as been dry you may want to water the plants you are dividing the night before you plan to dig them to make your job a little easier.

Potentilla fruticosa 'Goldfinger'. 'Goldfinger' Cinquefoil, referring to its five-leaved leaflets, is a small, mounding deciduous shrub that grows at a moderate rate to 3' by 3' and is well adapted to moist or dry soil. This member of the rose family (Rosaceae) flowers all summer with deep yellow 2 " blooms at the ends of its branches. It is deer resistant and low maintenance, only needing to be sheared to about a foot tall in late winter keeping it fuller and more floriferous.  This shrub makes a good background plant in a low perennial bed with Coneflowers (Echinacea), Pincushion Flowers (Scabiosa), the ground cover Dwarf Plumbage (Ceritostigma) or other low growing red or blue flowers. It is also nice as a foundation plant or in a cottage garden. Potentilla 'Goldfinger' will be happy in full sun or part shade, is cold hardy to zone 2 (-50 to -40) and drought tolerant once established.
Potentilla fruticosa 'Goldfinger'