PRUNE SUMMER FLOWERING SHRUBS AND VINES. In general, summer flowering shrubs and vines should be pruned this time of year. Again evaluate these plants individually to see if any pruning needs to be done. Buddleja (Butterfly Bush) does not need to be pruned until it has been in the ground at least 2 years. After that thin it by removing 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest growth all the way to the ground. This practice will encourage new growth and since Butterfly Bushes bloom on new wood this will improve flowering. Caryopteris (Blue Mist Spiraea) blooms on current season's wood as well. Cut it back to 1' and lightly prune after flowering to encourage another bloom. Cotoneasters need little pruning just an occasional shaping. Photinia (Red Tip) can be shaped now. If you are using it as a hedge you can even it off or as an accent shrub prune any crossing, rubbing, dead branches all the way back. Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) should have the old, weak, dead wood thinned out and to promote larger flowers cut back the previuos year's growth to 2 buds. Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo) will stay full and bushy if you cut any tall leafless canes all the way to the ground. Spiraea should have the older, woody braches thinned out. Most vines that flower in summer such as Campsis (Trumpet Vine), Polygonum (Silver Lace Vine) and Parthenocissus (Virginia Creeper) can be thinned and have the dead or weak wood removed. These are a few of the more popular summer flowering shrubs and vines. Spring flowering shrubs and vines should generally be pruned after flowering. Roses should not be pruned until the first few leaf buds begin to break in spring, usually late March. Prune the woody Salvias (Sage) after new growth starts in spring by cutting them back to active growth. If you have specific questions about pruning please leave a comment or email me at email@example.com.
Last but not least for those of you that read last month's entry about the winter sustainability of pansies:
|4 degrees ok...minus 8...not so much|