Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Happy Holidays!

and the best of everything in the New Year!

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Happy Thanksgiving!

Just so you know we are still alive and well I thought I would do a quick post to wish everyone a Joyful Turkey Day. I will be making Salt Roasted Turkey with Lemon and Oregano. I couldn't get the link to work so you can find the recipe at www.bonappetit.com. This has been my 'go to' turkey for a few years now (used to brine) and it always comes out moist and juicy and flavorful. There is some fresh oregano hiding under the frozen tops in the herb garden and the lemons add a brightness that can't be beat. A glass of Pinot Noir, a few sides and you have plenty to be thankful for!

We had a wonderfilled roadtrip to the Northwest in October. Went to a trade show in Reno as we do every year to place orders for next season. Lots of the popular items plus a few new ones. Headed north to Bend, Oregon. Bend is a great town of 85,000 inhabitants and almost as many breweries. 

It is high desert with a similar climate to Silver City and a lot of the same plants. They don't receive much rain because it is on the East slope of the Cascades but the Deschutes River runs right through town and they do have major winter. 

There was some great fall color and did I mention breweries?

From Bend we drove through the Cascades  

 and out to the coast

through the redwoods

to San Francisco.

Gained inspiration from the Japanese Garden at Golden Gate Park

and toured the new Levi's Stadium in Santa Clara.
All in all an excellent vacation!

Don't forget Small Business Saturday is November 29th this year. Get out and support all of the great locally owned small businesses we have here in Grant County.

Water, water, water!

Happy Thanksgiving!
Steve and Regina

Sunday, September 28, 2014

The end...for now.

The nursery is now closed for the season. We will reopen on Tuesday, March 24th, 2015. As always thanks to our customers for your patronage. You have given us 19 successful years here in Silver City. We appreciate your business, of course, but also the knowledge you have shared...and the jokes! Have a great winter and we look forward to seeing you in the spring.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

End of the Season Sale!!!

It's that time again! 




$5.00 ROSES

Everything must be purchased and picked up the same day.

Sunday, August 31, 2014

September 2014

Plant cool season vegetables and annuals. Last month I wrote about planting the vegetables that like to mature when it is cool from seed. This month you can plant them as transplants. We just received some lettuces, kale, broccoli and cabbage as well as pansies, violas, dianthus and snapdragons. Pansies and violas will flower all winter long and dianthus and snaps are basically perennial. This is our last truck of the season so when they're gone, they're gone!

Plant spring flowering shrubs. This is the time to think about the shrubs and groundcovers you see blooming early in the spring. Forsythia, Lilacs, Creeping Phlox and Wallflower are the most common. Since plants do about 80% of their root growth in late summer, fall and winter it is a good time to get them in the ground. If you plant now you will be rewarded with beautiful early spring flowers.

Store herbs. It is always sad to see your herbs die back in the cold. Now is a good time to preserve some of your favorites for use during the winter. Since leaves are most potent just before plants begin to flower, try to keep the blooms pruned off and harvest them as soon as you see flower buds starting. Cut the stems of herbs you want to keep in the morning before it gets too hot. Discard any damaged or yellowing leaves, rinse under cold water and drain thoroughly. I use my salad spinner for this. Drying is one of the easiest ways to preserve herbs. Tie together the cut ends and hang to dry in a well ventilated place out of direct sunlight. To keep dust from settling on them cover with paper bags or cheesecloth. You can also strip the leaves from the stems and dry them on racks or newspaper. Oven drying or using a dehydrator is quicker but more expensive and makes the herbs lose flavor. For best results dry them very slowly at 110 degrees. After drying remove the leaves from the stems and store in an airtight container in a cool dark place or they can be frozen. Soft leaved herbs such as basil, chives, fennel, lovage, mint and tarragon can be blanched and then frozen. Using 1 pint of water for every 2.5 ounces of fresh herbs, place leaves in a wire basket or colander and plunge into boiling water for 30 seconds. Immediately immerse the herbs in ice water for 1 minute. Blot excess moisture and pack them tightly in freezer bags. Squeeze out as much air as possible, seal and freeze. Considering the high price of most herbs in the grocery stores, a little work now can go a long way in winter.

Erysimum. Wallflowers are useful evergreen perennials for our climate. Cold hardy to zone 5, critter resistant and low water, we have two varieties in stock now. Most of you are familiar with Erysimum linifolium 'Bowles Mauve'. It forms a large globe 2' by 2' with narrow gray-green leaves and a profusion of iridescent, fragrant mauve flowers all summer. It is at home in a perennial bed mixed with yellows and whites. Remove spent flowers to keep it looking its best. The other Wallflower that we grew this year is Erysimum kotschyanum 'Orange Flame'. It is a groundcover that will reach 8-10" tall and 14" wide. The small leaves are light green and will be covered with fragrant orange flowers in spring. It would do well planted in the front of a bed, along a walkway, on a slope or spilling over the edge of a wall. Both of these Wallflowers attract butterflies and bees.

'Bowles Mauve' Wallflower

'Orange Flame' Wallflower

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Fall is in the air!

Ahhhh Fall!
Apples, Football and Grasses. 
Grasses? Many of the ornamental grasses are coloring up and blooming now and here are the ones we have in stock.

Pennisetum 'Burgundy Bunny'
A red-tinted sport of the popular 'Little Bunny,' this dwarf Fountain Grass only reaches 12-16" tall and wide and its narrow leaves are mixed carmine and green all summer. Then it blazes scarlet from autumn until frost. It has cream-colored "bunny tail" blooms, would be perfect for containers, along a walkway or in the middle of a perennial bed. This irresistible miniature is hardy to zone 5 (-20).

Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’
The Japanese Bloodgrass is a spreading grass that grows to 18" by 12". The wide blades are green at the base with red tips that become more intense over summer and autumn. This grass rarely blooms and takes a little more shade than other grasses. Nice in a rock garden, near water or as a mass planting it is cold hardy to 20 degrees below zero.

Panicum virgatum 'Shenandoah'

The reddest of the Switchgrasses 'Shenondoah' will reach 2' by 2' at maturity with red seedheads above. Like Japanese Bloodgrass the green blades become more red in summer and fall. It is cold hardy to zone 4.

 Elymus arenarius
Blue Lyme Grass is a very fast growing, sometimes invasive, steel blue grass that reaches 2' tall. The beige flower stalks grow above the foliage and it will adapt to sun or shade and wet or dry areas. Plant it to hold a bank, along a dry creek or in a pot. Another cold hardy grass to -30 and it is evergreen!

Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus'
Maiden Grass is a fast growing, tall grass that will reach at least 4' tall with the seed heads reaching 6'. The fine green foliage will cure to bronze in winter and the blooms are copper colored turning cream. It is tall enough to make a screen or be planted in the back of a border. Drought tolerant and cold hardy to zone 5.

Cortaderia selloana
Pampas Grass is another fast growing grass with sharp-edged, thick, light green leaves and large white plumes. Give it plenty of room as it grows quickly to 6-10' tall and 3-6' wide. It can be used as a hedge, screen or specimen and is hardy to zero degrees.

All ornamental grasses are deer resistant. They can and sometimes should be divided every few years. For winter interest leave the foliage until the new growth starts in spring and then cut back.

Thursday, July 31, 2014

August already

Come to our AUGUST TREE & ROSE SALE! All of our trees and roses are 20% off through August. We have a nice selection of evergreens, fruit and shade left. So for those of you who have been waiting for this...here it is!

Go on The Evergreen Garden Club's Annual Garden Tour. It takes place on Saturday August 9th from 9-1 and we have once again been selected to be on the tour. For those of you who are saying "Really?" "Again?" I think they thought that since the date has been changed to August different things would be blooming and they were right. If you didn't make it out last year, please come. If you did come last year please bring a friend this year. This is a good organization to support and it is always nice to see what other people are doing with their yards. We are located at 141 Armijo Road just past mile marker 28 heading south on highway 90. Third house on the right.
  The next house on the tour is at 101 Christopher. If you continue past our house on Armijo, it veers right and Christopher goes straight (east). This house is the first one on the left, about 3/4 of a mile down Christopher. It has a lot of colorful drought tolerant plants and a beautiful courtyard.
  Blythe Whiteley has also been on the tour before. She sells her cut flowers at the Farmers' Market on Saturdays. Her landscape is full of unusual varieties of perennials, annuals, roses, vines, shrubs and trees. I am sure you will see something you have never seen before. This garden's address is 816 East Pine which is off Silver.
  Alicia and Emma are the creators of the landscape at 1809 N Yucca off 18th St. They describe it as an urban fruit and vegetable garden with an emphasis on pollinator habitat, utilizing xeric and native plants. This same philosophy has been implemented at The Commons which is also on the tour. It is located at the corner of 13th and Corbin and can be reached by turning east off of Hudson onto 12th and then turning north onto Corbin.
  If you have a garden or landscape that you are proud of, contact The Evergreen Garden Club and let them know you would like to be on the tour next year (388-1324).

We will be closing at 3:00 on August 9th because it is our 30th wedding anniversary...and we can. Thanks to Gavin and Bill for making this little getaway possible!

Plant cool season veggies from seed. I don't know about you but I can't stand to have empty space in my vegetable garden. And since we just pulled the last of our carrots, beets and onions, we planted fennel, lettuce and radishes. They should be up in no time with this warm (ok hot) weather and produce before it starts to freeze. Here is the list of when to plant what give or take a week or two. Remember that we will have transplants for cool season vegetables in September.

ASPARAGUS (P)                     MARCH1-APRIL30
BEANS, BUSH (S)                  MAY1-31 & JULY1-31
BEANS, POLE (S)                   MAY1-31
BEANS, LIMA (S)                  MAY1-JULY15
BEANS, PINTO (S)                MAY1-31
BEETS (S)                              MARCH1-APRIL15 & JULY15-AUGUST1
BROCCOLI (S) (P)                   MARCH15-APRIL1 & JULY1-15
CABBAGE (S) (P)                    MARCH15-31 & JULY1-15
CANTALOUPE (S) (P)             APRIL15-30
CARROTS (S)                         FEBRUARY15-APRIL 1 & JULY1-AUGUST1
CAULIFLOWER (S) (P)           MARCH15-31 & JULY1-AUGUST1
CORN, SWEET (S)                 APRIL20-JULY1
CUCUMBER (S) (P)                 APRIL15-MAY15
EGGPLANT (P)                       APRIL15- MAY15
GARLIC (Bulb)                       SEPTEMBER15-NOVEMBER15
LEEKS (S)                              FEBRUARY15-MARCH15
LETTUCE, HEAD (S) (P)         MARCH1-15
-BUTTERHEAD (S) (P)           MARCH1-31 & JULY15-AUGUST15
OKRA (S)                               APRIL15-30
ONIONS (S) (Sets)               FEBRUARY15-MARCH15 & SEPTEMBER1-31
PEAS (S)                                FEBRAURY15-APRIL15
WHITE (SP)                           APRIL1- MAY15
PUMPKIN (S)                          MAY1-15
RADISH (S)                            MARCH1-APRIL30 & SEPTEMBER1-30
SPINACH (S) (P)                     FEBRUARY15-MARCH15 & AUGUST1-30
TOMATOES (S) (P)                 APRIL15-MAY15
TURNIPS (S)                          MARCH1-APRIL15 & JULY1-AUGUST15
WATERMELON (S) (P)           APRIL20-MAY20
(S) =plant by seed; (P) = plant live transplants; (SP) =plant seed potatoes or use pieces of organic potatoes
Last frost date in the Grant County area is April 15-May 15 depending on the year and microclimate you are in.
Grant County Extension Service has more free information at 2610 N. Silver Street, Silver City (575) 388-1559.

Plant now and stock up for next year. 
Lake Valley & Pagano seeds are untreated and contain no GMO's.

Lagerstroemia indica. Crape Myrtle is a moderate growing deciduous shrub that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes.  It is a China native with smooth gray bark that can become mottled pink with age. The new foliage is light green with bronze edges and will turn yellow, orange and red in fall. In summer the crepelike flowers form in clusters 6-12" long and the round seed pods provide winter interest. The two varieties that we are carrying now are 'Pink Velour' and 'Red Rocket'. 'Pink Velour' has bright pink flowers and slightly darker foliage being wine-burgundy in spring. It is also considered a semi-dwarf variety only reaching 6-10 feet tall and wide and is a zone 7 plant. 'Red Rocket' will grow to at least 10 feet with ruby red blooms and is a little more cold hardy at zone 6. Both of these Crape Myrtles should be planted in full sun for the most blooms. They could be trained into a small tree, used as an anchor in a perennial bed, grown as a hedge, or used as a screen. They bloom on new wood but really only need to be pruned to shape. Low water and low maintenance, what's not to like?
Lagerstroemis indica 'Red Rocket'

Monday, July 14, 2014



By the way, we carry several styles of rain gauges. You really need to be able to tell your friends how much you got!

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

JULY 2014

We will be closed July 4th through the 7th to celebrate our independence! Hope you have a safe and fun-filled holiday!


Think about your pollinators. I have been suffering from "blogblock". When considering a subject to write about then looking back and seeing that particular topic was pretty comprehensively covered in an earlier post. That is why I often link you to a previous post. So I have been thinking about questions and conversations we have had from/with customers over the last few weeks. One concern that keeps popping up is the use of systemic insecticides, that contain neonicotinoids, on shrubs, annuals, perennials and vegetables. This was mentioned in  June 2013 ("Attract beneficial insects") via a link a friend sent me. These insecticides are synthetic derivatives of nicotine that attack insects' nervous systems. Because they are systemic they contaminate the entire plant including pollen and nectar. Any systemic insecticide, especially those with neonicotinoids will stay in the plant for AT LEAST 8 weeks killing anything that comes for a drink of its nectar. First, we would personally never use any kind of a systemic anything on our plants.  We never use any nonorganic pesticides of any sort on the perennials and shrubs that we grow. Second, there are very few, if any, large commercial growers that don't use some sort of nonorganic pesticides. Our grower does not use any systemic pesticides. The insecticides he uses have little residual effects and once the plants are delivered to us we treat them organically. I am not sure the other places in town that sell plants (your superstore, your hardware store, your grocery store, your farmers' market) can say the same thing about their plants. I understand the economics of this practice. It is pretty easy to mix some of this stuff into the soil before you plant and not have to worry about ANY insects. But that is really the point isn't it? Not worrying about ANY insects.

A variety of beneficial pollinators on our lovage and parsley.

Control insects on houseplants. (Reprinted from blogpost March 2012 & newsletter July 2002) If you have houseplants that you move indoors in the winter and outside to a shady spot in the summer I am sure you have noticed how insects seem to flourish indoors. Most insects love the warm, dry, still environment of a house. Be it a greenhouse or your home. Houseplants can be affected by a wide range of insects. Keeping them healthy by not overfertilizing or overwatering is one of the keys to preventing problems. Check them frequently for pests and you will be able to stop a problem before it gets out of hand. Be sure to check the undersides of the leaves and the leaf crotches since this is where trouble usually starts. Aphids are small tear-drop shaped sucking insects that can be green, black, reddish, yellow or wooly and cluster on the new growth. The leaves will look distorted. Wash aphids off with water or use Safer's Insecticidal Soap which will dry them up and kill them. Scale are also sucking insects. They gather on the leaves and branches and can be recognized by their hard, brown covering. This covering is waxy in nature and protects the insect inside which makes them hard to control with contact-kill insecticides. Your best form of attack is Horticultural Oil which will coat and smother them.  Spider mites are another nasty sucker. They are microscopic and the first signs are dull, stippled leaves, webbing and the plants may be stunted. Misting your plants or spraying them with water in a kitchen sink or shower will help deter them since they prefer warm, dry conditions. Safer's Insecticidal Soap or Horticultural Oil are the best sprays for control. Mealybugs are of recognizable size but hard to detect because they cluster on leaf stems, branch crotches and roots. They have round, white, fuzzy looking bodies and can eventually kill a plant. For small infestations rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab will take care of it. For larger problems use Horticultural Oil. Whiteflies look just like their name implies. They are tiny, winged white insects that flutter above the plant when disturbed. They attach themselves to the undersides of the leaves and are one of the most difficult insects to eradicate. Be persistent. Alternating Horticultural Oil and Safer's Insecticidal Soap every other week is effective. Increase air circulation and wash leaves off with water. A homemade spray of 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap, 1 cup cooking oil, 1 cup rubbing alcohol and 1 quart of water can be used every 10 days. Don't forget the undersides of the leaves. All of these sucking insects excrete a shiny substance called honeydew. It is often the first sign of a problem and left unchecked can encourage the growth of Sooty Mold. This looks like soot covering the leaves and is more unattractive than it is dangerous. First control the insects that are creating the honeydew and then wash the sooty mold off with a damp cloth. Fungus Gnats are very active when conditions are moist and/or humid. They look like tiny flies and lay their eggs on top of the wet soil. They are more annoying than damaging. Most importantly let the surface of the soil dry out between waterings. Yellow Sticky Traps will catch the adults and Mosquito Bits will kill the eggs.
Always follow label directions when using any of these insecticides as some plants may be sensitive to certain oils and soaps. If it is possible, when all danger of frost has passed, move your plants to a bright shady or part shade location away from strong winds. This will allow natural predators to intervene. One more word of advice (I make mistakes so you don't have to); although a feather duster is a good way to clean your plants it is also a good vehicle for your pests to hitch a ride on. 

Fertilize. As of right now (Love this website: Wunderground) we have a significant chance of precipitation beginning on Tuesday. Hallelujah! I may be getting 2 hours a day of my life back.  I have been reading articles that indicate that evenly moist soil (from rain) aids in the uptake of fertilizers. So if this monsoon does happen it is a perfect time to feed all of your plants. In deciding what fertilizer is best for you look at the numbers or chemical analysis on the fertilizer bag. Nitrogen, the first number, is for green leafy growth. Phosphorus, the second number, encourages healthy blooms, roots and fruits. Potash or Potassium is the third number and it is for overall hardiness, strong stems and branches, and disease resistance. We carry Fox Farm's Happy Frog  granular and liquid fertilizers. The granular products contain mycorrhizae which are beneficial fungus that attach to plants roots and aid in the absorption  of nutrients and water. You can choose from Fruit & Flower (5-8-4), Tomato & Vegetable (7-4-5), All Purpose(5-5-5) and Rose Food (4-4-5). These are organic based and easy to use since you sprinkle them on the soil and water them in. The liquids are mixed with water and applied to the root area. They include an all organic Big Bloom (0.01-0.3-0.7), Grow Big (6-4-4) for vegetative growth and Tiger Bloom (2-8-4) to encourage flowers and fruit set.  The Fox Farm liquids contain micronutrients, earthworm castings and kelp. We also have Yum Yum Mix (2-1-1) which is a very balanced, organic, all purpose, vegetarian (no animal products) blend. Another all purpose is Chickity Doo Doo (5-3-2.5). It is composted chicken manure and contains 9% Calcium. The other fertilizer that we have always sold is Gro-Power which is formulated with our southwest alkaline soil in mind. There are two different blends which contain 6-7% humic acid derived from compost. This helps break up compacted soil, encourages biological activity and promotes water conservation. Sulphur is also added to control the Ph and unlock available iron. We recommend using Gro-Power Hi-Nitro for lawns at a rate of 7 lbs. per 1000 square feet. It can also be used to fertilize any evergreen trees or shrubs by applying 1/2 cup for every 5 feet of height. The analysis of the Hi-Nitro is 14-4-9. This means it is highest in Nitrogen which, in addition to producing dark green vegetative growth, increases protein content in food crops and helps plants use moisture more efficiently. For all of your flowering trees and shrubs, fruit trees, perennials, annuals and vegetable gardens you can use Gro-Power Flower & Bloom (3-12-12). It is low in Nitrogen but high in the primary elements Phosphorus and Potash. Use Flower & Bloom at the rate of 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of bed area or for individual plants apply 1 cup per 8 feet of height or width whichever is greater. It is also a wonderful winterizer. Just let us know what you are feeding and we will find the fertilizer that is right for you.

Perovskia atriplicifolia. Russian Sage is a very popular perennial around here and for good reason. It grows fast, is drought tolerant once established, cold hardy, and deer and rabbit proof. The abundant lavender-blue blooms are borne in spikelike clusters that form a cloud above the foliage. They are a magnet for butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. Native to the mountains of Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran and Tibet it grows quickly each year to at least 3' tall and 4' wide. The gray leaves are finely divided giving it a lacy appearance. Plant this perennial in full sun with bright yellow or magenta companions. It is very versatile and would be at home with evergreens or in a xeriscape. To rejuvenate cut to the ground anytime after frost.
Perovskia atriplicifolia

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Proven Winners

We just brought in some new Proven Winners that we grew at our home nursery!

Big Lifeberry® Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum)

'Sweet Summer Love' Clematis (Clematis)

'Summer Shandy' Hops (Humulus)

'Red Wall' Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)

'Miss Molly' Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)

Sunday, June 1, 2014

June 2014 & Garden Furniture Sale!

including benches, tables and chairs 
are on sale through June or while supplies last
FOR 20% OFF!

Plant something. A tomato, a shrub, a petunia, a shade tree...anything can be planted now. We are starting to hear the old "Isn't it too late to plant?". Seriously? First it was "too early" and now it is "too late". I would really like to know when that 2 hour window of the perfect time to plant is open! What we always tell customers is if the plant (tree, shrub, perennial, whatever) is here and acclimated (outside, not coming out of a climate controlled greenhouse) to our area it is better off in the ground than it is sitting in the pot. That rule applies year round. Granted you have to water more often in June than you do in January but it is still ok to plant. I must say in the almost 20 years we have been in Silver City we have planted something in every month of the year with great success. When Steve was landscaping in Tucson they planted year round including when temps were 100+. So follow our "Planting and Care Guide" and keep it simple. Dig that hole twice as wide and 1 1/2 times as deep as the container the plant is in. Mix in 1/3 Back to Earth Compost Blend to 2/3 of your native soil (we know it is rarely good and sometimes terrible) and water in using Superthrive or B1. With all of this warm weather things will be growing and yes you will want to check them often for water needs. We can't tell you how often to water due to differences in soil drainage, planting mix preparation, weather, plant root maturity, etc. Stick your finger in or dig down about 2 inches just outside the rootball and when dry, water enough to wet all the way to the bottom of the root area and slightly beyond to encourage new roots.

Prune spring flowering shrubs. Forsythia, Lilac (Syringa), Spiraea , Pyracantha, Red Twigged Dogwood (Cornus) and other spring flowering shrubs will benefit from pruning now. First remove anything diseased, damaged or dead. Also prune out any crossing or rubbing branches. Forsythia, Lilacs and Red Twigged Dogwood all bloom on new wood. They should be encouraged to sprout new growth from their base by pruning 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest growth all the way to the ground. 'Snowmound' and other spring flowering Spiraea should have the branches that flowered removed and the new growth will then bloom next year. Most other shrubs can be pruned to a desired shape. If you have specific questions about how or when to prune one of your landscape plants, leave a comment here, email us or stop by the nursery and we will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Deadhead. I talk and write about deadheading often because I know it keeps your annuals, perennials and flowering shrubs blooming abundantly. You will also prevent invasive plants from self-sowing as well as adding a neat and tidy appearance to your garden. Flowers attract pollinating birds and insects. After pollination a flower will put energy into producing seed instead of flowers. If you interrupt this cycle by removing the pollinated flowers or those that are declining, the plant will continue to produce more flowers. When removing dead flowers from perennials trace the stem back to a new flower bud. If there are no new buds cut it back to the foliage or the ground. If spent flowers outnumber the new buds shear all of the stems down to the foliage and it will quickly rebloom. Annuals can be deadheaded by pinching off the flowers back to the next leaf. When cutting flowers to bring indoors these same rules apply.

Control Insects. Because of the mild winter insect populations are at an all time high. To refresh your memory on what to use to control what, here is a link to a post when we had the same problems because of a really wet winter. Go figure. Controlling Insects

Artemisia 'Powis Castle'. This versatile member of the wormwood genus is a valuable addition to any landscape. It grows quickly to a 2-3 foot high by 3-5 foot wide mound with finely divided silver, feathery leaves. The color contrasts well with reds and oranges and blends with softer lavenders, blues and pinks. Plant it in the middle of a perennial bed, giving it lots of room, as a foundation plant or on a bank or hillside to prevent erosion. This perennial is very drought tolerant, cold hardy to 10 below zero and absolutely nothing will eat the citrusy-lavender smelling foliage. To keep it bushy you can cut it back in spring to around 6 inches being sure to leave plenty of leaf buds.

Artemisia 'Powis Castle' and Salvia greggii

Thursday, May 1, 2014

May 2014

First and foremost you need to know that our fruit, shade and flowering trees have arrived along with our beautiful Weeks roses.
As always all of our roses are 10% OFF through Mother's Day!!!

Choose a tree. A tree is a big investment. Not just financial but in time spent planting, watering, fertilizing & pruning. That is why you need to put some serious thought into choosing the right tree for your situation. A well placed tree can provide shade, break the wind, block an unwanted view, attract birds, be something nice to look at or all of the above. Most important is the size of the tree. Always choose a variety that will not outgrow the space you are planting it in. Keep in mind that the absorbing roots of a tree are usually within the top 3 feet of soil and extend to the dripline. The dripline is the imaginary line where rain would fall from the outermost branches. So plant any tree where the mature size and the roots won't ever encroach on a building, patio, wall or driveway.The next thing to think about is what function you would like your tree to serve. Shade can be provided by numerous selections and deciduous trees that are meant to shade the house are best placed on the south or west side. To shade a patio, smaller scale trees may be useful as well as fruit trees. Since fruit production in our area is so sporadic, we always tell customers to use their fruit trees as shade first and fruit second.The best choice for a windbreak is an evergreen tree planted on the west or southwest side since that is where the prevailing winds come from. Choose evergreens because our spring winds usually start before the deciduous trees have leafed out and our winter winds can be brutal. Blocking a view would be best served with an evergreen as well because you probably don't want to look at whatever it is in the winter either. Many trees attract Hummingbirds with their flowers and Songbirds with their fruit. And a well placed tree can provide you with some spring or summer blooms and beautiful fall color.

Come in to the nursery and we can help you decide which tree is the best choice for whatever your needs may be.

Plant containers. One of my favorite spring chores is planting my containers at home. The rule of thumb when planting your pots is that they should contain a thriller, some filler and a spiller. I think primary colors (blue, red & yellow) always look good together but any combination of colors and textures that suit your individual taste will do. You should start by filling your pots with a great potting soil like Uni-Gro. This has been a customer favorite for 19 years and we personally use it for our pots and everything we grow for the nursery. Plant your thriller in the center of the container. A thriller could be anything tall like a decorative grass, Spike, any tall Salvia, Marogold or Zinnia or even a vegetable. Next choose a filler or two. The filler is something of medium height that will be shorter than your thriller but taller than your spiller. Fillers include Nasturtiums, Gerber Daisies, Gazanias, Petunias, Annual Vinca, Impatiens, Marigolds and many others. I think they look best in mass to get the full effect of the color. So plant them around your thriller in groups of three or more. The final step is the spiller and you can use one or two of these as well. Sweet Potato Vine, Wave Petunias, Million Bells, Portulaca, Asparagus Fern, Bacopa and Mandevilla all work well. Plant these towards the front or if the pot will be viewed from all sides, around the edge. Water your pots thoroughly with a root stimulator like SUPERTHRIVE (Yes we have it back!) and fertilize regularly with Fox Farm Tiger Bloom, Fruit & Flower or Yum Yum Mix. I know the question will be "What can I plant that the deer won't eat?" and my perfect combination for that is Spike (thriller), Vinca (filler) and Nierembergia or Asparagus Fern (spiller). Have fun with this and remember that we get weekly deliveries of annuals and perennials so you will have a lot to choose from whether your pots are in full sun, part sun or full shade.

Pinus nigra. The Austrian Black Pine is a fast growing, long needled, dark green pine that will reach a mature height of 30 feet tall by 15 feet wide. It forms a dense pyramid and unlike other pines it does not shed its lower branches so it stays full to the ground. This conifer makes a great windbreak and can be mixed with Blue Spruce, Eldarica Pines and other evergreens or used as a specimen. It is very cold hardy (think Austria) and a moderate water user.