Sunday, July 31, 2011

August 2011 and Tree Sale!

THINGS TO DO:
Come to our AUGUST TREE SALE!!! Yes, for those of you who were going to wait until our end of the season sale, wait no longer! All of our fruit, shade, flowering and evergreen trees are 20% off through the month of August. No, we will not be getting in any more trees until next year but we still have many good varieties left. Stop by, take advantage of our sale and plant a tree in August. 

Control snails. I am somewhat surprised that people are seeing snails this year as dry as it has been however they are here. Maybe not in the numbers they were last year but doing their damage none the less. These little creatures hide out under garden debris and other shady areas during the heat of the day and come out to dine on your plants when it's cool. They have toothlike jaws that eat holes in your plants' leaves and flowers. To control them start by clearing out their hiding areas. You can fill shallow containers with beer or a little yeast and sugar mixed with water and this will lure the little lushes in to drown. Happy, but dead. There is also an organic product called Sluggo. This product, which we sell, is simply iron phosphate with a bait additive. It is very effective and after eating the bait, slugs and snails will stop feeding, become less mobile and begin to die within three to six days. It is OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) registered and can be applied at a rate of 1 lb per 1000 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square yard. It is safe to use around pets, wildlife and homo sapiens.

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Sedum. The sedums that we carry are among the hardiest succulents and their small flowers are starlike in large clusters borne on stems above the foliage. They are useful as a ground cover, in a rock garden, along a walkway or cascading over a stone wall. Sedum 'Coral Reef' has very round deep green leaves with rosy-bronze tips and yellow flowers in early summer. Sedum spurium 'Dragon's Blood' has scalloped-edged and red-tinged foliage that turns completely red in the fall. Its blooms are red and appear summer into fall. This same species has another cultivar 'Red Carpet' which has bronze and green leaves and red flowers in the summer. Also in this species is 'Tricolor' that blooms throughout the summer with soft pink flowers and has, as its name implies, white, pink and green foliage. Sedum 'Blue Spruce' has a very different leaf than the previous sedums. It actually looks like the gray-green needles of a Blue Spruce and its summer blooms are yellow. All of these evergreen perennials will grow to 3-4" tall and 1-2' wide, are hardy to at least 30 degrees below zero, drought tolerant and should be planted in full or half a day of sun.
'Tricolor'

'Coral Reef'

'Blue Spruce'


NOW AVAILABLE:
We still have lots of beautiful, reasonably priced glazed pottery, Back to Earth Compost, Uni-Gro Potting Soil, shrubs, perennials and fertilizers. Don't forget we will be getting a truckload of Pansies, Violas, Mums and Cool-Season Veggies in September...just in time for fall planting!


Sunday, July 10, 2011

2011 SEED SALE!

Our 2011 Lake Valley Seeds are half price from Tuesday, July 12th through Saturday, July 23rd. We still have Herb, Flower and cool season Vegetable seeds available. Most seeds are viable for several years, so take advantage of this sale now!

Friday, July 1, 2011

July 2011

THINGS TO DO:
Control blossom-end rot. We have had a lot of questions concerning blossom-end rot this season so I will try to explain it so you have a better idea of how to prevent it. Blossom-end rot affects the fruit of tomatoes, peppers, squash and other vegetables and first appears as a brown discoloration on the blossom end of the fruit. The spot will enlarge as the fruit grows, becoming sunken and leathery with age. Bacteria can invade the tissue resulting in a black and watery appearance. This affected portion of the fruit can be cut off and the remaining part still eaten. Blossom-end rot is not a disease or a virus so it is not passed through the soil or spread by insects. This disorder is caused by a deficiency of calcium as a result of the plant's inability to take up this necessary element that is usually present in our soil. This can occur due to 1) excess nitrogen, magnesium, potassium or sodium fertilization, 2) very wet or very dry conditions, 3) high salts, 4) a combination of the above causes. To control this condition mulch with organic matter to keep roots evenly moist and do not over-fertilize. Nitrogen fertilizer should only be applied to keep a normal green color and maintain moderate growth. Use organic fertilizers such as Yum Yum Mix, Peace of Mind or Chickity Doo Doo and never use chemical fertilizers that have a high salt content such as Miracle-Gro. If you follow these simple rules you won't have a problem with blossom-end rot. Bon Appetit!

Control Insects. I think I covered this subject pretty comprehensively last July. Here is the link July 2010.

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Coreopsis species. When most people think of Coreopsis they think of those bright yellow flowers with slightly hairy narrow leaves that reseed freely in your garden. I am here to share two very different Coreopsis with you; Coreopsis verticillata 'Sienna Sunset' and Coreopsis rosea 'Heaven's Gate'. Although they are different species these two new Coreopsis have some similar traits. The leaves are fern-like and both will reach 1-1.5' tall and wide. From June until September flowers cover the stems with 1 1/2 inch, 8 petaled blooms that are good for cutting and bringing indoors. The differences are that the flower of 'Sienna Sunset' is burnt sienna fading to a salmon orange and it is more drought tolerant than 'Heaven's Gate' which has a light pink blossom with a rosy eye. Enjoy these perennials planted in masses, borders or pots in full sun or half a day of shade and know that even in a harsh winter they are hardy to 20 degrees below zero.
'Sienna Sunset'

'Heaven's Gate'
NEW ARRIVALS:
We got in our last trucks until September and are loaded with annuals, perennials, trees, shrubs and vines. Now that it looks as though it may rain it would be a great time to plant! In September we will get in a truckload of pansies, violas, snapdragons, mums and cool season veggies.

We have also just received another shipment of glazed, cold tolerant, Chinese pottery in beautiful shades of blue, green and brown.

As always we have our Back to Earth Compost (great for mulching), Uni-Gro Potting Soil, Composted Cattle Manure, Top Soil, Fox Farm Fertilizers, Yum Yum Mix, Chickity Doo Doo and a variety of organic pesticides and fungicides.

Do a rain dance and come and see us soon!!!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

June 2011

THINGS TO DO:
Water. Water. Water. I really can't remember when we last had a good rain or even snow for that matter...was it December 31st? Watering in June is a real time sponge but very necessary.  Watering correctly is even more important. So here are some watering thoughts. The purpose of watering is to hydrate the roots so that they can hydrate the stems, trunks and leaves of plants. When you water you need to think about soaking the entire root area and slightly beyond. This will encourage root exploration and production. When watering any landscape plant you need to water out to the dripline. That imaginary line where (imaginary) rain would fall from the branches or outermost leaves. If you have a well or basin around your plants to hold the water this needs to be enlarged as the plant grows.

Never shallow water or water everyday as this will cause shallow rooting and the plant will only be able to survive from day to day. I have heard many times that a plant has been in the ground for several years and not grown. When I ask about watering the answer is almost always that they water everyday. In order for a tree or shrub to get new top growth it needs new root growth to support that new top growth. By shallow watering everyday you don't encourage any new root growth.

Overwatering is just as bad as underwatering. Plants need to go through a cycle of wetting and drying. Too much water will deprive the plant's roots of necessary oxygen and too little will kill the roots. Check your plants daily for their water needs when first planted and less often once they become established by digging down in the soil an inch or two and, if it is dry, water thoroughly. Even "drought tolerant" plants need to be checked and watered accordingly. They just tend to need it less often.

Plants do 80% of their root growth in late summer, fall and WINTER! It is especially important to keep them hydrated year round. They will obviously not need to be watered as often during cooler months as they do in June but they still need to be checked for their needs. I have had many customers over the years tell me that a tree has leafed out in spring just fine and then when the hot weather hit it died. The cause of this was lack of winter moisture. Because Mother Nature didn't provide any winter moisture and they failed to provide some, roots were damaged and the tree had enough root to survive the cooler weather in the spring but didn't have enough root to supply the tree once it got hot.

Last but not least don't water the foliage of plants, only the root area. Watreing leaves can scorch them if done in the hot sun and it also encourages diseases like powdery mildew. The exception to this rule is evergreens such as Pines, Junipers and Arborvitae. They can benefit from being hosed down when you water them as they tend to get spider mites which like hot, dry conditions.

 I hope this clears up some misconceptions about watering and helps you create a healthy environment for your landscape plants. 

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Lysimanchia atropurpurea. I was introduced to the Loosetrife 'Beaujolais' in my friend and fellow gardener, Vivian Savitt's garden last June. I knew this perennial was so striking we had to grow it and we now have it available at the nursery. 'Beaujolais' forms mounds of gray, slightly ruffled long leaves spreading to 24" wide. In summer, arching spikes of burgundy flowers appear 24-36" tall. This plant is very cold hardy at 20 to 30 degrees below zero and attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. We have been growing them in full sun at our home nursery and they seem to be doing fine but in Vivian's garden they were in part shade and blooming very well. I think this Loosestrife is a must for any perennial garden.

YUM YUM MIX:
By popular demand we are once again carrying Yum Yum Mix. It is a premium blend of eight natural ingredients that feeds the soil that feeds your plants. It improves soil tilth, moisture retention, plant vigor and stress resistance. Used regularly it helps create a balanced pH and a naturally fertile soil. Perfect for trees, shrubs, perennials, vegetables, annuals and lawns. Use 1-4 pounds per 100 sq. ft. Yum Yum Mix does not contain any animal ingredients.

EVERGREEN GARDEN TOUR:
We are selling tickets for the Evergreen Garden Club's Annual Garden Tour this year. This is always a great event. They support:
  • Mimbres Community Garden
  • Bayard Community Garden
  • Mimbres Valley Harvest Festival
  • Earth Day
  • Adopt-a-Highway
  • Habitat for Humanity and more
Go and have a great time!! It is on Saturday, June 18th. Stop and pick up one (or several) for only $5.00 a piece.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Honestly!




 
These are the best looking, healthiest roses we have sold in 16 years!!!!!!!

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Rose Care and Fruit & Shade

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Rosa. There is nothing like a rose to light up a landscape, perk up a pot or just brighten the face of someone you care about and WE HAVE ROSES! As you may know we just received a truckload of Fruit and Shade trees, Weeks and J& P roses and Monrovia shrubs. The roses are 10% off through Saturday, May 7th so get your Mother's Day gifts now! Here is a copy of our Rose Care Guide and although some think roses are fussy and hard to care for they are actually quite easy and satisfying.


1. CHOOSING A ROSE: There are several classes of roses. Here are a few of the basics to help you choose the ones that best suit your needs.
Hybrid Tea- These are the most popular bush type roses. They typically reach 3-5 feet tall and have medium to large flowers borne singly on a long stem. This is the classic cutting rose.
Floribunda- The flowers of this bush are usually smaller than a Hybrid Tea but in large clusters. These plants are shorter at about 2-4 feet tall. Floribundas make great flowering hedges or borders.
Grandiflora- These lie somewhere between their Hybrid Tea and Floribunda parents. They produce the flower of a hybrid tea in clusters like a Floribunda. The height is taller though at around 8 feet which makes them a fine background plant.
Climber- Most are vigorous Floribundas or Hybrid Teas that form long canes. You will need to tie them to some sort of sturdy support since they don’t actually “climb” by themselves. Climbers are useful on a trellis or espaliered on a wall or fence.
Miniature- Smaller versions of the above classes. Use them in containers, inside or out, as borders or ground covers.
Hardy Shrub- They are older varieties of roses before roses were hybridized and are very cold hardy, disease resistant and fragrant. The leaves tend to be more crinkled than a hybrid and some produce large hips. Expect them to get 4-7 feet tall and the most popular are Rugosa Roses. Use them effectively as a hedge or background plant.
2. PLANTING: Follow the Silver Heights Nursery “Planting & Care Guide” and, in addition, mix 1 cup Bone Meal into your prepared soil. After planting, sprinkle 1 cup Epsom Salts (the magnesium improves leaf color and vigor) around the root area and water in thoroughly.
3. FERTILIZING: A regular fertilization schedule can be started 1 month after planting. But do not feed after September 1st nor before May 1st. Use an organic or organic based fertilizer such as Peace of Mind Rose Food or Fruit and Flower, Gro-Power Flower n’ Bloom, Chickity Doo Doo or Fish Emulsion. Mulch year round with Back To Earth Compost for moisture retention and to protect roots from both heat and cold extremes.
4. PESTS & DISEASES: The best way to deal with these problems is to prevent them or catch them in the early stages. Keeping your plants healthy is the first step toward prevention. Do not let your roses become stressed due to lack of water or nutrients. Never use high nitrogen fertilizers that will cause rampant green growth which insects and diseases find very inviting. Plant your roses in full or morning sun so the leaves will not stay damp. Never water the foliage, only the root area. Keep the center of bush type roses “opened up” to encourage good air circulation. Remove debris, fallen leaves and buds from underneath your plants. Check your roses frequently for any signs of pests and diseases. Here are a few of the most common problems and solutions:
APHIDS & SPIDER MITES-Spray in the morning with a strong jet of water for three days, then treat with insecticidal soap if still present. Beneficial insects.
THRIPS-Spray with insecticidal soap. Beneficial insects.
BORERS-Prune damaged canes and seal ends with tree seal, nail polish or paraffin.
POWDERY MILDEW & RUST-Use sulphur or neem spray as a preventative and to deter spreading. Prune off and dispose of badly infected plant parts.
5. PRUNING: Major pruning should be done in the spring when the buds begin to swell. All pruning cuts should be made ¼ inch above an outward facing bud, at an angle sloping away from the bud. All removal cuts should be made at the source, leaving no stub. The basic principles of pruning bush type roses are as follows: Remove dead canes to the crown. Prune canes damaged by cold to a point where the wood is showing white all the way through. Remove any weak, crossing or rubbing canes and those that tend to crowd the center. Cut off any suckers coming from below the bud union at their source. Shorten any remaining canes by one third to one half. In general, Hybrid Tea roses should be pruned to maintain 3-6 healthy canes, Grandifloras as many as 8 and Floribundas 6-8. Miniatures are pruned in the same way as the larger bush roses. Climber’s laterals can be shortened to 3-6 inches. Shrub roses should only be pruned to shape when young. When mature, remove twiggy growth, very old canes to the ground and shorten other canes by one third. To keep roses fresh looking throughout the flowering season prune spent flowers just above an outward facing leaf with 5 leaflets. This is where a new flower will come from. To cut flowers to enjoy indoors, prune this way also.



Here is a list of the Fruit and Shade Trees with descriptions to help you decide what you want. All of these trees are reliable "tried and true" varieties for our area.

FRUIT
The fruit trees listed below will all perform well in the Silver City/Grant County area. Unless otherwise noted they are self-fruitful. The three fruit tree sizes we sell are: genetic dwarf reaching 5-7 feet tall and wide; semi-dwarf which is simply a standard variety that has been grafted to a rootstock that limits the overall size to 12-15 feet tall and wide; standard which can reach 25 feet or more in height and width. Sizes normally available will be noted with the description of the fruit trees. These trees are ordered a year in advance so there will be no more this year once they are gone. Please shop accordingly.
ALMOND
ALL-IN-ONE: Soft shelled with sweet kernels. Usually about 15 feet tall. Ripens late September to early October. USDA zone 7.
APPLE
BRAEBURN: Medium, golden red, firm, crisp, sweet tart. Stores well. Ripens mid-late October. Standard. USDA zone 4.
GALA: Medium, golden yellow with reddish blush, firm, crisp, sweet, juicy. Stores well. Ripens late August to early September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.
GRANNY SMITH: Large, bright to yellowish green, firm, tart. Good for eating, cooking, sauce. Ripens late August to mid September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.

RED DELICIOUS: Large, bright red, crisp, juicy. Bears more heavily when pollinized with Yellow Delicious. Ripens September thru October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 4.
WINESAP: Medium, dark red, crisp, tangy. Stores well. Good for dessert, canning or juice. Ripens September to October. Standard. USDA zone 4.
YELLOW DELICIOUS: Medium to large. Golden, crisp. Stores well. Eating and cooking variety. Excellent pollinizer for most apples. Ripens September to October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 5.
APRICOT
CHINESE: Medium, golden, firm, fine texture, sweet, edible pit. Good for late frost areas and very cold hardy. Ripens late June to early July. Standard. USDA zone 4.
TILTON: Large, light orange, firm, flavorful. Excellent for freezing, canning and drying. Resistant to late frosts. Ripens mid to late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.
CHERRY
LAPINS: Large, dark red, firm, sweet. Known as a “self fertile Bing”. Ripens late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 6.
STELLA: Large, dark red, firm, sweet, good flavor and texture. Tree bears at a young age. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
FIG
KADOTA: Medium, lemon yellow skin, amber colored pulp. Good for canning, fresh eating or drying. Ripens October into November. Standard. USDA zone 7.
GRAPE
CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Small, dark reddish purple to black, seeded, wine grape. Ripens late September to October. Vine. USDA zone 6.
CRIMSON SEEDLESS: Large, red, firm, sweet, good flavor. Ripens October. Vine. USDA zone 6.
THOMPSON SEEDLESS: Medium, greenish white. Good for eating or raisins. Ripens early August. Vine. USDA zone 7.
MULBERRY
PAKISTAN WHITE: Fruit is ½ to 1 inch long, white to light pink, sweet. Non-staining since the fruit is white. Ripens June to July. Standard. USDA zone 4.
NECTARINE
FANTASIA: Very large, freestone, bright red with yellow under-color, sweet, juicy, good quality. Ripens mid to late July. Standard. USDA zone 6.
NECTA ZEE: Medium, high quality yellow fleshed semi-freestone. Ripens in June. Genetic dwarf. USDA zone 5.
PEACH
ELBERTA: Large, freestone, golden yellow flushed red where exposed to the sun, rich, sweet. Good all around peach for desserts, canning, freezing and jam. Ripens late July. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.
PIX ZEE: High quality yellow fleshed, semi-freestone. Ripens June. Genetic dwarf. USDA zone 5.
RIO OSO GEM: Large, freestone, red blushed yellow skin, firm, yellow flesh, red at the pit, great tasting. Ripens mid August. Standard. USDA zone 6.
STRAWBERRY: Medium, light skin with a pink blush, flesh is white, firm, aromatic, sweet, juicy. Old favorite of those who like white peaches. Ripens early July. Standard. USDA zone 7.
PEAR
BARTLETT: Large, smooth, waxy, yellow skin with white, sweet, juicy flesh. Good for fresh eating, canning and preserves. Ripens August. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
BEURRE D’ANJOU: Medium to large, green skin with yellow blush, white, fine favored flesh, delicate aroma. Excellent for canning and fresh eating. Ripens September. Standard. USDA zone 5.
PLUM
GREEN GAGE: Medium, round, greenish yellow skin, very sweet, candy-like flavor. Fresh eating, jams and good home canning variety. Ripens July. Standard. USDA zone 5.
SANTA ROSA: Large, oval, purplish red skin with blue blush, firm flesh, yellow to dark red near skin, rich, pleasing, tart flavor. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
SATSUMA: Large, dark red skin, firm, rather juicy red flesh. Excellent for jams and jellies. Ripens late July to early August. Pollinize with Santa Rosa. Standard. USDA zone 6.
POMEGRANATE
WONDERFUL: Extra large, blushed red skin, flesh is rich, red color, juicy with sharp flavor. Good for jellies. Ripens September. Grow as a fountain shaped bush or tree, 10‟-20‟ tall. USDA zone 7.
SHADE
AUTUMN BLAZE MAPLE (Acer freemanii „Autumn Blaze‟): Fast growing to 50‟ high x 40‟ wide, drought tolerant. Spring leaves emerge with a reddish tint then turn to a rich green with a long show of vibrant red in the fall. Works well as a street or lawn tree. USDA zone 4.
MIMOSA/SILK TREE (Albizia julibrissin): Fast growing to 15‟-25‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Umbrella shaped, tropical looking foliage with whimsical pink brush-like flowers in late spring. Use as a patio or shade tree. Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. USDA zone 7.
EASTERN REDBUD (Cercis canadensis): Moderate growth to 15‟-25‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Beautiful rosy pink flower clusters line the bare branches in spring. New foliage is reddish purple turning to dark green in summer. Patio or small shade tree that attracts butterflies, songbirds and hummingbirds. USDA zone 5.

CHITALPA (Chitalpa tashkentensis „Pink Dawn‟): Fast growth to 20‟-30‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to its large pink summer flowers. This is a cross between Desert Willow and Catalpa. USDA zone 7.
RAYWOOD ASH (Fraxinus oxycarpa): Fast growth up to 25‟ high x 25‟ wide, moderate water user. Dark green foliage gives way to deep red fall color. Makes a desirable shade tree that can be used near patios or walkways. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA ASH ‘BERRINDA’ (Fraxinus velutina 'Berrinda'): Fast growth to 35‟ high x 35‟ wide, a drought tolerant New Mexico native. Golden yellow fall color. Tree develops strong central leader when young requiring minimal pruning later in life. Large shade tree. USDA zone 6.
GOLDEN HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis 'Aurea'): Fast growing to 40‟ high x 25‟ wide, drought tolerant. Adapted to a wide range of harsh growing conditions. Very hard wood makes
it strong against our winds. New foliage bright golden yellow changing to green in summer. Many small leaflets are fern-like in appearance. Late to leaf out and early dormancy make it a good lawn tree. Not good in narrow spaces nor near sidewalks. USDA zone 4.
SHADEMASTER HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis „Shademaster‟): Faster growing than the Golden Honey Locust, can reach 45‟ high x 35‟ wide, drought tolerant. Very hardy and adaptable. Good lawn tree but not near sidewalks nor in small spaces. USDA zone 4.
CRABAPPLE ‘PRAIRIFIRE’ (Malus „Prairifire‟): Moderate growth rate to 20‟ high x 20‟ wide, moderate water use. Beautiful dark red spring buds open to reveal pinkish red flowers. Foliage is reddish maturing to dark green followed by striking fall colors. Birds will enjoy the intermittent crop of small, red fruits. This tree is very disease resistant. Good for small shade, near water features or where you can take full advantage of the various seasons of color. USDA zone 4.
CHINABERRY/TEXAS UMBRELLA (Melia azedarach): Fast growth to 30‟ high x 30‟ wide, drought tolerant. Lilac colored flowers appear in spring followed by fruit that is poisonous if eaten in quantity. Rich green dense shade in hottest, driest climates. Golden fall foliage show. USDA zone 7.
FRUITLESS MULBERRY (Morus alba): The fastest growing shade tree for our area, 40‟ high x 40‟ wide, moderate water. Rounded tree with large maple-like leaves, no fruit production. Difficult to garden under due to heavy surface roots. Do not plant near your foundation, driveway, sidewalks or hard surfaced patios. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA SYCAMORE (Platanus wrightii): Fast grower to 80‟ high x 50‟ wide, needs regular water during dry season. Classic climbing tree with graceful horizontal branching and mottled bark. These are the statuesque giants in the Cat Walk area. Winter interest from golf ball sized seed pods. USDA zone 6.
FLOWERING PLUM/PURPLE LEAF PLUM ‘KRAUTER VESUVIUS’ (Prunus cerasifera „Krauter Vesuvius‟): Moderate growth to 18‟ high x 12‟ wide, medium water use. Distinctive features include pink spring blooms backed by purple-red new leaves. Small scale, vase shaped tree can be planted in lawns, near patios or as an accent. USDA zone 5.
BRADFORD FLOWERING PEAR (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford'): Moderate to fast grower up to 35‟ high x 25‟ wide, moderate water. Showy white spring flowers followed by glossy, dark green, roundish leaves and spectacular red fall color. Oval shaped shade or accent tree for all seasons. USDA zone 5.
PURPLE ROBE LOCUST (Robinia x ambigua 'Purple Robe'): Fast growing, tough tree to 40‟ high x 20‟ wide. Tolerant of drought and poor soil. Showy pink to purple flower clusters in late spring make it a stand out. Even with open form it makes great shade with long shadows. USDA zone 4

Thursday, April 21, 2011

New Pottery

Just got in a new shipment of Chinese and Vietnamese glazed pottery. These pots are fired hotter than others and will go through a normal winter outdoors. Come in and see all the great shapes and colors. Great prices, too!