Honestly!

 
These are the best looking, healthiest roses we have sold in 16 years!!!!!!!

Rose Care and Fruit & Shade

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Rosa. There is nothing like a rose to light up a landscape, perk up a pot or just brighten the face of someone you care about and WE HAVE ROSES! As you may know we just received a truckload of Fruit and Shade trees, Weeks and J& P roses and Monrovia shrubs. The roses are 10% off through Saturday, May 7th so get your Mother's Day gifts now! Here is a copy of our Rose Care Guide and although some think roses are fussy and hard to care for they are actually quite easy and satisfying.


1. CHOOSING A ROSE: There are several classes of roses. Here are a few of the basics to help you choose the ones that best suit your needs.
Hybrid Tea- These are the most popular bush type roses. They typically reach 3-5 feet tall and have medium to large flowers borne singly on a long stem. This is the classic cutting rose.
Floribunda- The flowers of this bush are usually smaller than a Hybrid Tea but in large clusters. These plants are shorter at about 2-4 feet tall. Floribundas make great flowering hedges or borders.
Grandiflora- These lie somewhere between their Hybrid Tea and Floribunda parents. They produce the flower of a hybrid tea in clusters like a Floribunda. The height is taller though at around 8 feet which makes them a fine background plant.
Climber- Most are vigorous Floribundas or Hybrid Teas that form long canes. You will need to tie them to some sort of sturdy support since they don’t actually “climb” by themselves. Climbers are useful on a trellis or espaliered on a wall or fence.
Miniature- Smaller versions of the above classes. Use them in containers, inside or out, as borders or ground covers.
Hardy Shrub- They are older varieties of roses before roses were hybridized and are very cold hardy, disease resistant and fragrant. The leaves tend to be more crinkled than a hybrid and some produce large hips. Expect them to get 4-7 feet tall and the most popular are Rugosa Roses. Use them effectively as a hedge or background plant.
2. PLANTING: Follow the Silver Heights Nursery “Planting & Care Guide” and, in addition, mix 1 cup Bone Meal into your prepared soil. After planting, sprinkle 1 cup Epsom Salts (the magnesium improves leaf color and vigor) around the root area and water in thoroughly.
3. FERTILIZING: A regular fertilization schedule can be started 1 month after planting. But do not feed after September 1st nor before May 1st. Use an organic or organic based fertilizer such as Peace of Mind Rose Food or Fruit and Flower, Gro-Power Flower n’ Bloom, Chickity Doo Doo or Fish Emulsion. Mulch year round with Back To Earth Compost for moisture retention and to protect roots from both heat and cold extremes.
4. PESTS & DISEASES: The best way to deal with these problems is to prevent them or catch them in the early stages. Keeping your plants healthy is the first step toward prevention. Do not let your roses become stressed due to lack of water or nutrients. Never use high nitrogen fertilizers that will cause rampant green growth which insects and diseases find very inviting. Plant your roses in full or morning sun so the leaves will not stay damp. Never water the foliage, only the root area. Keep the center of bush type roses “opened up” to encourage good air circulation. Remove debris, fallen leaves and buds from underneath your plants. Check your roses frequently for any signs of pests and diseases. Here are a few of the most common problems and solutions:
APHIDS & SPIDER MITES-Spray in the morning with a strong jet of water for three days, then treat with insecticidal soap if still present. Beneficial insects.
THRIPS-Spray with insecticidal soap. Beneficial insects.
BORERS-Prune damaged canes and seal ends with tree seal, nail polish or paraffin.
POWDERY MILDEW & RUST-Use sulphur or neem spray as a preventative and to deter spreading. Prune off and dispose of badly infected plant parts.
5. PRUNING: Major pruning should be done in the spring when the buds begin to swell. All pruning cuts should be made ¼ inch above an outward facing bud, at an angle sloping away from the bud. All removal cuts should be made at the source, leaving no stub. The basic principles of pruning bush type roses are as follows: Remove dead canes to the crown. Prune canes damaged by cold to a point where the wood is showing white all the way through. Remove any weak, crossing or rubbing canes and those that tend to crowd the center. Cut off any suckers coming from below the bud union at their source. Shorten any remaining canes by one third to one half. In general, Hybrid Tea roses should be pruned to maintain 3-6 healthy canes, Grandifloras as many as 8 and Floribundas 6-8. Miniatures are pruned in the same way as the larger bush roses. Climber’s laterals can be shortened to 3-6 inches. Shrub roses should only be pruned to shape when young. When mature, remove twiggy growth, very old canes to the ground and shorten other canes by one third. To keep roses fresh looking throughout the flowering season prune spent flowers just above an outward facing leaf with 5 leaflets. This is where a new flower will come from. To cut flowers to enjoy indoors, prune this way also.



Here is a list of the Fruit and Shade Trees with descriptions to help you decide what you want. All of these trees are reliable "tried and true" varieties for our area.

FRUIT

The fruit trees listed below will all perform well in the Silver City/Grant County area. Unless otherwise noted they are self-fruitful. The three fruit tree sizes we sell are: genetic dwarf reaching 5-7 feet tall and wide; semi-dwarf which is simply a standard variety that has been grafted to a rootstock that limits the overall size to 12-15 feet tall and wide; standard which can reach 25 feet or more in height and width. Sizes normally available will be noted with the description of the fruit trees. These trees are ordered a year in advance so there will be no more this year once they are gone. Please shop accordingly.

ALMOND

ALL-IN-ONE: Soft shelled with sweet kernels. Usually about 15 feet tall. Ripens late September to early October. USDA zone 7.

APPLE

BRAEBURN: Medium, golden red, firm, crisp, sweet tart. Stores well. Ripens mid-late October. Standard. USDA zone 4.
GALA: Medium, golden yellow with reddish blush, firm, crisp, sweet, juicy. Stores well. Ripens late August to early September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.
GRANNY SMITH: Large, bright to yellowish green, firm, tart. Good for eating, cooking, sauce. Ripens late August to mid September. Semi-dwarf & standard. USDA zone 7.

RED DELICIOUS: Large, bright red, crisp, juicy. Bears more heavily when pollinized with Yellow Delicious. Ripens September thru October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 4.
WINESAP: Medium, dark red, crisp, tangy. Stores well. Good for dessert, canning or juice. Ripens September to October. Standard. USDA zone 4.
YELLOW DELICIOUS: Medium to large. Golden, crisp. Stores well. Eating and cooking variety. Excellent pollinizer for most apples. Ripens September to October. Semi-dwarf. USDA zone 5.

APRICOT

CHINESE: Medium, golden, firm, fine texture, sweet, edible pit. Good for late frost areas and very cold hardy. Ripens late June to early July. Standard. USDA zone 4.
TILTON: Large, light orange, firm, flavorful. Excellent for freezing, canning and drying. Resistant to late frosts. Ripens mid to late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.

CHERRY

LAPINS: Large, dark red, firm, sweet. Known as a “self fertile Bing”. Ripens late June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 6.
STELLA: Large, dark red, firm, sweet, good flavor and texture. Tree bears at a young age. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.

FIG

KADOTA: Medium, lemon yellow skin, amber colored pulp. Good for canning, fresh eating or drying. Ripens October into November. Standard. USDA zone 7.

GRAPE

CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Small, dark reddish purple to black, seeded, wine grape. Ripens late September to October. Vine. USDA zone 6.
CRIMSON SEEDLESS: Large, red, firm, sweet, good flavor. Ripens October. Vine. USDA zone 6.
THOMPSON SEEDLESS: Medium, greenish white. Good for eating or raisins. Ripens early August. Vine. USDA zone 7.

MULBERRY

PAKISTAN WHITE: Fruit is ½ to 1 inch long, white to light pink, sweet. Non-staining since the fruit is white. Ripens June to July. Standard. USDA zone 4.

NECTARINE

FANTASIA: Very large, freestone, bright red with yellow under-color, sweet, juicy, good quality. Ripens mid to late July. Standard. USDA zone 6.
NECTA ZEE: Medium, high quality yellow fleshed semi-freestone. Ripens in June. Genetic dwarf. USDA zone 5.

PEACH

ELBERTA: Large, freestone, golden yellow flushed red where exposed to the sun, rich, sweet. Good all around peach for desserts, canning, freezing and jam. Ripens late July. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 4.
PIX ZEE: High quality yellow fleshed, semi-freestone. Ripens June. Genetic dwarf. USDA zone 5.
RIO OSO GEM: Large, freestone, red blushed yellow skin, firm, yellow flesh, red at the pit, great tasting. Ripens mid August. Standard. USDA zone 6.
STRAWBERRY: Medium, light skin with a pink blush, flesh is white, firm, aromatic, sweet, juicy. Old favorite of those who like white peaches. Ripens early July. Standard. USDA zone 7.

PEAR

BARTLETT: Large, smooth, waxy, yellow skin with white, sweet, juicy flesh. Good for fresh eating, canning and preserves. Ripens August. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
BEURRE D’ANJOU: Medium to large, green skin with yellow blush, white, fine favored flesh, delicate aroma. Excellent for canning and fresh eating. Ripens September. Standard. USDA zone 5.

PLUM

GREEN GAGE: Medium, round, greenish yellow skin, very sweet, candy-like flavor. Fresh eating, jams and good home canning variety. Ripens July. Standard. USDA zone 5.
SANTA ROSA: Large, oval, purplish red skin with blue blush, firm flesh, yellow to dark red near skin, rich, pleasing, tart flavor. Ripens mid June. Semi-dwarf and standard. USDA zone 5.
SATSUMA: Large, dark red skin, firm, rather juicy red flesh. Excellent for jams and jellies. Ripens late July to early August. Pollinize with Santa Rosa. Standard. USDA zone 6.

POMEGRANATE

WONDERFUL: Extra large, blushed red skin, flesh is rich, red color, juicy with sharp flavor. Good for jellies. Ripens September. Grow as a fountain shaped bush or tree, 10‟-20‟ tall. USDA zone 7.

SHADE

AUTUMN BLAZE MAPLE (Acer freemanii „Autumn Blaze‟): Fast growing to 50‟ high x 40‟ wide, drought tolerant. Spring leaves emerge with a reddish tint then turn to a rich green with a long show of vibrant red in the fall. Works well as a street or lawn tree. USDA zone 4.
MIMOSA/SILK TREE (Albizia julibrissin): Fast growing to 15‟-25‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Umbrella shaped, tropical looking foliage with whimsical pink brush-like flowers in late spring. Use as a patio or shade tree. Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. USDA zone 7.
EASTERN REDBUD (Cercis canadensis): Moderate growth to 15‟-25‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Beautiful rosy pink flower clusters line the bare branches in spring. New foliage is reddish purple turning to dark green in summer. Patio or small shade tree that attracts butterflies, songbirds and hummingbirds. USDA zone 5.

CHITALPA (Chitalpa tashkentensis „Pink Dawn‟): Fast growth to 20‟-30‟ high x 20‟ wide, drought tolerant. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to its large pink summer flowers. This is a cross between Desert Willow and Catalpa. USDA zone 7.
RAYWOOD ASH (Fraxinus oxycarpa): Fast growth up to 25‟ high x 25‟ wide, moderate water user. Dark green foliage gives way to deep red fall color. Makes a desirable shade tree that can be used near patios or walkways. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA ASH ‘BERRINDA’ (Fraxinus velutina 'Berrinda'): Fast growth to 35‟ high x 35‟ wide, a drought tolerant New Mexico native. Golden yellow fall color. Tree develops strong central leader when young requiring minimal pruning later in life. Large shade tree. USDA zone 6.
GOLDEN HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis 'Aurea'): Fast growing to 40‟ high x 25‟ wide, drought tolerant. Adapted to a wide range of harsh growing conditions. Very hard wood makes
it strong against our winds. New foliage bright golden yellow changing to green in summer. Many small leaflets are fern-like in appearance. Late to leaf out and early dormancy make it a good lawn tree. Not good in narrow spaces nor near sidewalks. USDA zone 4.
SHADEMASTER HONEY LOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis „Shademaster‟): Faster growing than the Golden Honey Locust, can reach 45‟ high x 35‟ wide, drought tolerant. Very hardy and adaptable. Good lawn tree but not near sidewalks nor in small spaces. USDA zone 4.
CRABAPPLE ‘PRAIRIFIRE’ (Malus „Prairifire‟): Moderate growth rate to 20‟ high x 20‟ wide, moderate water use. Beautiful dark red spring buds open to reveal pinkish red flowers. Foliage is reddish maturing to dark green followed by striking fall colors. Birds will enjoy the intermittent crop of small, red fruits. This tree is very disease resistant. Good for small shade, near water features or where you can take full advantage of the various seasons of color. USDA zone 4.
CHINABERRY/TEXAS UMBRELLA (Melia azedarach): Fast growth to 30‟ high x 30‟ wide, drought tolerant. Lilac colored flowers appear in spring followed by fruit that is poisonous if eaten in quantity. Rich green dense shade in hottest, driest climates. Golden fall foliage show. USDA zone 7.
FRUITLESS MULBERRY (Morus alba): The fastest growing shade tree for our area, 40‟ high x 40‟ wide, moderate water. Rounded tree with large maple-like leaves, no fruit production. Difficult to garden under due to heavy surface roots. Do not plant near your foundation, driveway, sidewalks or hard surfaced patios. USDA zone 5.
ARIZONA SYCAMORE (Platanus wrightii): Fast grower to 80‟ high x 50‟ wide, needs regular water during dry season. Classic climbing tree with graceful horizontal branching and mottled bark. These are the statuesque giants in the Cat Walk area. Winter interest from golf ball sized seed pods. USDA zone 6.
FLOWERING PLUM/PURPLE LEAF PLUM ‘KRAUTER VESUVIUS’ (Prunus cerasifera „Krauter Vesuvius‟): Moderate growth to 18‟ high x 12‟ wide, medium water use. Distinctive features include pink spring blooms backed by purple-red new leaves. Small scale, vase shaped tree can be planted in lawns, near patios or as an accent. USDA zone 5.
BRADFORD FLOWERING PEAR (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford'): Moderate to fast grower up to 35‟ high x 25‟ wide, moderate water. Showy white spring flowers followed by glossy, dark green, roundish leaves and spectacular red fall color. Oval shaped shade or accent tree for all seasons. USDA zone 5.
PURPLE ROBE LOCUST (Robinia x ambigua 'Purple Robe'): Fast growing, tough tree to 40‟ high x 20‟ wide. Tolerant of drought and poor soil. Showy pink to purple flower clusters in late spring make it a stand out. Even with open form it makes great shade with long shadows. USDA zone 4

New Pottery

Just got in a new shipment of Chinese and Vietnamese glazed pottery. These pots are fired hotter than others and will go through a normal winter outdoors. Come in and see all the great shapes and colors. Great prices, too!

April 2011

THINGS TO DO:
DIVIDE PERENNIALS.
Propagating a plant by dividing it into several individual plants, complete with roots and buds of their own, is called division. Most herbaceous perennials, those that die to the ground in the winter, will benefit from being divided every few years. Bee Balm (Monarda), Daylillies (Hemerocallis), some Sage (Salvia), Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Coneflowers (Echinacea) are just a few that fall into this category. If your perennials have become overgrown, died out in the center or just don’t bloom as well as they used to, rejuvenate them by dividing now. Have the area you plan to transplant them to or the containers you will pot them in ready so you don’t leave their roots exposed for too long. Add 1/3 Back to Earth Compost to 2/3 of your native soil and a handful of Bone Meal to encourage root growth when planting in the ground. Use Uni-Gro Organic Potting Soil for containers. Start by digging up the root system using a trowel, spade or in the case of large clumps a garden fork. Shake off the loose soil and remove dead leaves and stems. Wash the soil from the crown so you can see the buds clearly. Divide the clump into sections that contain several buds or shoots and healthy roots discarding any old, woody growth. Replant and water thoroughly with a root stimulator to settle the soil around the roots. Since it as been dry you may want to water the plants you are dividing the night before you plan to dig them to make your job a little easier.
CREATE A HEALTHY LAWN.
If your lawn was seeded or sodded on top of hard clay soil chances are the roots never developed more than a couple of inches deep. This means the grass will not grow very tall and it will need more water to keep it green, than if it was well rooted. Aside from redoing your entire lawn correctly there are a few steps you can take to improve your existing one. First remove any thatch buildup that is preventing air, water and fertilizer from penetrating the roots. Begin this process by raking as much of the dead grass out of your lawn as possible. If the buildup is really heavy you can rent an aerator. After you have raked or aerated apply gypsum at a rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet. Water it in to loosen and condition the soil. The reason clay soil is so hard is that it is made up of a lot of very small soil particles. Gypsum binds the clay particles together to make larger particles and therefore more space in between them to allow water and roots to penetrate  easily.  In a few days add a well balanced organic fertilizer that will add good bacteria to help decompose above ground dead and decaying matter. You don’t want to add too much nitrogen (the first number of the analysis). Fish Emulsion (it stinks!), Seaweed Extract, Fox Farm Liquid Grow Big or Tiger Bloom, Granular All Purpose and Chickity Doo Doo are all good choices. You may need to repeat this entire process Spring and Fall to achieve maximum results. By continuing to use organic fertilizers and gypsum and by watering deeply you will encourage biologically active soil that promotes root development for a healthier, greener, more water efficient lawn.

PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Erysimum ‘Apricot Twist’. The wallflower that most people are familiar with is ‘Bowles Mauve’. We have had so many customers rave about it that I decided to try a new variety. ‘Apricot Twist’ will grow to at least 2’ tall and wide. The leaves are narrow, gray-green and form an evergreen mound. The lavender buds open to apricot-orange  blooms in clusters of cross-shaped flowers almost continuously but most heavily in spring and fall. They are members of the Brassica family which includes broccoli and the flowers are very similar. The wallflowers are perennial but may bloom themselves to death after a few years. To prevent legginess, trim it lightly after flowering, and cut it back by half in late summer. Fertilize regularly. This fast growing perennial will take full sun or part shade, is cold hardy to 5 degrees below zero and is drought tolerant once established. This plant will be available mid-month.

The Mutilation Continues

Last year Taco Bell, this year Bright Funeral Home. They are doing their part (there are many more) to make Grant County ugly. Please don't do this to your trees. Please read this: The Mutilation of Trees in Grant County

This is a healthy, beautiful Sycamore.

This is what Bright Funeral Home did to their healthy, beautiful Sycamores.

Things to do in March

WAIT AND SEE. I have had a lot of questions concerning the survivability of zone 7 plants in light of the sub-zero temperatures we endured in early February. My best advice is wait and see. Some woody shrubs and perennials may have had their tops killed but will come back from the ground. I know my Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii), Photinia, Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica) and Rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) are all looking a little iffy at this point. Herbaceous perennials, those that naturally die to the ground in winter may break dormancy later than usual. It all depends on the location in your landscape, if they were stressed from lack of water or nutrients and how much snow was insulating them when the coldest temperatures hit. So wait well into May before you decide to replace things and if you do end up replacing a lot of plants you should probably stick with zone 6 from now on.

THINK VEGETABLES. If you want your own warm season vegetables to transplant outdoors in May you will need to start them indoors now. Bigger seeds like corn, beans, squash and melons are best seeded directly into the garden whereas smaller seeds such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant do well when planted from transplants. The quality of the seed you use is very important. We carry Lake Valley Seeds. Their germination rate is very high, all the seeds are untreated and they contain no Genetically Modified Organisms. When starting seeds indoors fill a seed tray with good potting soil like Uni-gro, that drains well. (We had a large number of people complain about the poor quality of the Miracle Gro potting soil that Walmart was selling last year. Keep in mind you really do get what you pay for.) Plant the seed according to package directions and firm the soil gently. Since warm season vegetables need warm soil to germinate, place the seed tray on a seedling heat mat, heating pad wrapped in plastic or the top of the refrigerator. Keep soil moist using a watering can with a very fine rosette or misting with a spray bottle. Once the seeds have germinated they will need lots of light. A sunny window (be sure to move them away at night if temps are cold), heated greenhouse or fluorescent grow lights work best. When seedlings develop their second set of leaves it is time to transplant them. Using your fingers or a spoon dig up individual seedlings keeping the rootball intact. Plant them in 3-4" pots filled with potting soil. Water thoroughly to settle soil and fertilize regularly with Fox Farm's liquid Grow Big or granular Tomato and Vegetable. You may want to transplant these plants again into larger containers as they outgrow their pots. One week before you plan to plant your vegetables outside (our average last frost date is May 1st) you will need to "harden them off" or get them used to direct sun, changing temperatures and wind. Set them outside for several hours every day gradually increasing their exposure to the elements. Once they are ready for the real world plant them in your garden. Tomatoes can be planted extra deeply for maximum root production. You may need to erect some sort of temporary windbreak.  If you don't want to go to all of this trouble we will have a large variety of warm season vegetables available beginning in mid-April. When we open on March 29th the nursery will already have cool season vegetables such as Cabbage, Lettuce, Spinach and Broccoli in stock that are ready to be planted and our 2011 Lake Vally Seeds are here.

PRUNE ROSES. See Silver Heights Nursery MARCH 2010.

Pruning

PRUNE DECIDUOUS TREES. This is actually a January chore but with this record breaking cold we have been preoccupied with freezing pipes, waiting for plumbers, hauling water from our "oh so sweet" neighbors, power outages and trying to keep a fire going. This high desert is nothing if not unpredictable. So it is the time of year (you are not too late) to evaluate your deciduous fruit and shade trees and see what, if any, pruning needs to be done. It is easy to see the shape of your trees when they are void of leaves. Pruning stimulates growth but this growth will be delayed until it warms in spring. Be sure that you have sharp clean pruning tools so that your cuts are precise and will callous over naturally. You will want to first remove any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Then prune off any limbs that are crossing, rubbing or heading toward the center. When removing a branch always cut it back to a place of active growth. This will be the trunk, another branch or a bud facing in a desirable direction.  Always prune slightly in front of the branch collar and these cuts will heal over. Never leave stubs as they will die back to a place of active growth inviting disease.  Removing any branches that are not heading up and/or out will allow air and sunlight to penetrate the center of your trees which increases fruit and flower production while decreasing insects and diseases. NEVER TOP A TREE!!!! A topped tree will either die because it can no longer supply itself with food or produce dangerous, ugly, weak growth. See The Mutilation of Trees in Grant County. Always plant  a tree that will not outgrow the space provided for it. Keep in mind that pruning is done to benefit the health and aesthetics of the tree. It is not something that should be done automatically every year.
PRUNE SUMMER FLOWERING SHRUBS AND VINES. In general, summer flowering shrubs and vines should be pruned this time of year. Again evaluate these plants individually to see if any pruning needs to be done. Buddleja (Butterfly Bush) does not need to be pruned until it has been in the ground at least 2 years. After that thin it by removing 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest growth all the way to the ground. This practice will encourage new growth and since Butterfly Bushes bloom on new wood this will improve flowering. Caryopteris (Blue Mist Spiraea) blooms on current season's wood as well. Cut it back to 1' and lightly prune after flowering to encourage another bloom. Cotoneasters  need little pruning just an occasional shaping. Photinia (Red Tip) can be shaped now. If you are using it as a hedge you can even it off or as an accent shrub prune any crossing, rubbing, dead branches all the way back. Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) should have the old, weak, dead wood thinned out and to promote larger flowers cut back the previuos year's growth to 2 buds. Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo) will stay full and bushy if you cut any tall leafless canes all the way to the ground. Spiraea should have the older, woody braches thinned out. Most vines that flower in summer such as Campsis (Trumpet Vine), Polygonum (Silver Lace Vine) and Parthenocissus (Virginia Creeper) can be thinned and have the dead or weak wood removed. These are a few of the more popular summer flowering shrubs and vines. Spring flowering shrubs and vines should generally be pruned after flowering. Roses should not be pruned until the first few leaf buds begin to break in spring, usually late March. Prune the woody Salvias (Sage) after new growth starts in spring by cutting them back to active growth. If you have specific questions about pruning please leave a comment or email me at silverheightsnursery@gmail.com.

Last but not least for those of you that read last month's entry about the winter sustainability of pansies:

4 degrees ok...minus 8...not so much